以Lagrangian方式描述漲退潮下沿緩斜坡前進之波浪

Progressive Waves on Gentle Slope under the Influence of Tide in Lagrangian Coordinates

陳陽益(Yang-Yih Chen) ； 楊炳達(Bin-Da Yang)

《海洋工程學刊》 13卷2期 (2013/06) Pp. 103-117

https://doi.org/10.6266/JCOE.2013.1302.02

摘要

前人針對非等水深中長、短波或波流交互作用的解析探究，至今仍甚少，且多無法有效地呈現底床坡度效應於其解析結果中；因此，沿著斜坡底床向岸前進時，就無法很適切地描述出其流場隨時空連續演變至碎波的整個過程。基此，為能更貼近真實地描述海岸波動現象，本研究將延續之前針對單一波列傳遞於緩坡底床之研究成果，進一步以兩波交會方式來考慮潮汐長波的影響，以較完整地考量底床坡度效應之優點，來彌補些前人研究之遺漏。本研究在 Eulerian系統下解析流場至三階解，再將結果轉換至 Lagrangian系統，並藉此分析流體質點的相關運動特性。

關鍵字

非線性波 ； 潮波 ； 淺化 ； 底床效應 ； 兩波交會

並列摘要

The research on the interactions between short and long waves or waves and currents on a variable bottom has less much been made. Since almost all of the presented analysis provided no answer to the effect on the bottom slope, this can't properly demonstrate the process of changes in fluid field while the short waves propagating on the long waves along gentle slope. Author's previous studies on a short wave train propagating over the gentle slope have gotten some reasonable results of the influence of the bottom slope. In order to describe the more practical phenomena about a progressive short gravity wave train at nearshore, this study will extend the previous advantages above and further consider the interaction with tidal waves to treat appropriately the proposed topic. The analytical solutions up to third order were obtained in Eulerian system. This study transfers the Eulerian's result into Lagrangian system, and analyses the kinematical property of fluid particle.

並列關鍵字

nonlinear wave ； tidal wave ； shoaling ； bottom effect ； wave-wave interaction ； Lagrangian