丁香萃取物的化粧品效能研究

本研究探用丁香(Eugenia caryophyllata Thunb.)的乾燥花蕾，經95%乙醇萃取，所製得的丁香乙醇萃取物再進行各項的效能評估試驗。在抑制痤瘡病原菌方面，100mg/ml丁香乙醇萃取物對金黃色葡萄球菌、白色表皮葡萄球菌、痤瘡桿菌、皮屑芽孢菌皆有高度的抑菌活性，且其MIC分別為25.0mg/ml、5.0mg/ml、0.5mg/ml、25.0mg/ml。在抗致突變方面，0.05mg/plate丁香乙醇萃取物對4-NQO引起致沙門氏菌TA98突變的抑制率為103.33%，屬於高度活性的抑制作用（抑制率≥60%）在抑制黑色素生成方面，丁香乙醇萃取物抑制生成黑色素的中間產物Dopachrome的IC50為0.94mg/ml。在抗氧化方面，25mg/ml丁香乙醇萃取物清除DPPH自由基的效果相當於同濃度BHA的861%、BHT的868%、Ascorbic acid的863%；10mg/ml丁香乙醇萃取物的還原力相當於同濃度BHA的941%、BHT的1019%、Ascorbic acid的963%；1mg/ml丁香乙醇萃取物清除超氧陰離子的效果相當於同濃度BHT的912%。綜合上述結果，丁香乙醇萃取物應可考量作為治療痤瘡、減少環境污染物質對皮表基因的傷害、美白皮膚以及抗老化的化粧品原料。

關鍵字

丁香；痤瘡；抗致突變性；美白；抗氧化

並列摘要

The dried buds of Eugenia casyophyllata were extracted by 95% ethanol, the ethanol extract was examined on the effects in the inhibiting of acne pathogens, the antimutagenicity, and the inhibiting of the formation of dopachrome. The ethanol extract of Eugenia caryophyllata buds with 100mg/ml shows high activities for the inhibiting acne pathogens. The MICs of the extract for Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermis, Propionibacterium acne and Malassezia furfur are 25.0mg/ml, 5.0mg/ml, 0.5mg/ml and 25mg/ml, respectively. The suppressing rate of the ethanol extract with 0.05mg/plate for the mutation of Salmonella typhimurium TA98 caused by 4-NQO is 103.33% which is higher than 60%. Suggesting that the extract belongs to the strong activity group of antimutagenicity. The IC50 of the ethanol extract for the formation of dopachrome is 0.94mg/ml. Indicating that the ethanol extract shows the activity for inhibiting of melanogensis. In the concentration of 25mg/ml, the ability of the ethanol extract for the scavenging DPPH free radicals is 86.1%, 86.8% and 86.3%, while, in 10mg/ml, for the reducing ferric ion is 94.1%, 101.9% and 96.3% to BHA, BHT and Ascorbic acid, respectively. In addition, in 1mg/ml, the ability for the scavenging superoxide anion radicals is 91.2% to BHT. The results indicate the ethanol extract behaves antioxidative activity. In conclusion, the ethanol extract of Eugenia caryophyllata buds is a suitable cosmetic raw material for curing acne, keeping the injury of genes in skin cells from pollutants, whitening skin and preventing aging.