東南亞女性婚姻移民與客家文化傳承：越南與印尼籍女性的飲食烹調策略

Southeast Asian Immigrant Wives and Reproduction of Hakka Dietary Culture: Vietnam and Indonesia Compared

張亭婷(Ting-Ting Chang) ； 張翰璧(Han-Pi Chang)

《台灣東南亞學刊》 5卷1期 (2008/04) Pp. 93-145

https://doi.org/10.7039/TJSAST.200804.0093

摘要

文化的內涵包含了行動者在日常生活中實作的累積，在客家庄裡的女性婚姻移民數量日益漸多的情形下，她們不僅僅扮演著生物再生產的角色，同時也肩負著客家文化再生產的重任，其儼然成爲客家文化傳承過程中相當重要且不可被忽視的中堅份子，本研究旨在透過飲食烹調這一日常的文化實作場域來探討女性婚姻移民是否對於客家文化的傳承發揮某種程度的影響力，婚姻移民之間的異質性是否也會爲客家文化傳承帶來不同的結果。
本研究發現歸納爲以下兩點：(1)在家庭飲食場域中，女性婚姻移民自身飲食慣習展現在家中的飲食決策上受限於機會結構的影響，例如夫家成員對異國料理的看法、婚姻移民懷孕和生產時所具有的飲食特權、家中的親密關係等，不同的機會結構組成會促使她們運用不同的飲食策略。(2)與公婆同住之家庭關係，對越南或印尼籍配偶是否或如何傳承客家飲食文化具有關鍵性的影響力，婆婆會透過每日的三餐實作，教導夫家慣用的客家家常料理。第一點可看出客家飲食文化的創新與揉合面向；第二點則可看作是飲食文化傳承的傳統面向，這同時也顯示了日常餐桌上的食物背後，其實隱涵了婆媳位階的權力關係以及以夫爲主的男性邏輯。

關鍵字

文化實作 ； 女性婚姻移民 ； 客家飲食文化

並列摘要

The full meaning of culture includes the practice of actors in everyday life. Immigrant wives not only play a role in the reproduction of humans, they also play a large role in the reproduction of culture. This research will explore what influence immigrant wives bring to Hakka culture through cooking-a field of cultural practice, and a space where immigrant wives bring different influences to Hakka culture.
The results of this research can be generalized the following points. First, in the field of family diet, to what extent do immigrant wives spread their own dietary habitus in the dietary decision-making of family is limited by certain opportunity structures. Such as, what attitude do family members take toward exotic foods? What dietary privileges do immigrant wives have access to when they conceive and are confined in the intimate relationships in family? Different opportunity structures would make them exercise different choices. Second. How do immigrant wives reproduce Hakka dietary culture? How is the affected by their living with parents-in-law or not? A mother-in-law could teach their foreign daughter-in-law the way of cooking in their family through the daily preparation of food. The first point can discern the innovative phase of Hakka dietary culture. The second point could be considered as the traditional phase of the reproduction of dietary culture. At the same time, this can also show as that the food on table can in fact reveal implications regarding the relation of power between the mother-in-law and daughter-in-law, and the male logic that dictates first place at the table is reserved for the husband.

並列關鍵字

cultural practice ； immigrant wives ； Hakka dietary culture

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