西門町青少年另類服飾之探討

服裝是一種美學媒介，透過服飾，人們可表達慾望、價值觀與信念。另類服飾係指整體造型特殊、具強烈風格，突破傳統思維且異於一般類型之穿著。本研究旨在探討西門町青少年另類服飾穿著之審美思考與實踐歷程，瞭解其另類穿著之動機、並分析影響其穿著之環境脈絡。研究者選定西門町的五位青少年作為研究對象，以訪談、觀察、文件分析等方式進行研究資料之蒐集。研究結果顯示：1.五位個案的另類服飾風格包括民族風、龐克風、可愛娃娃風、復古風，其審美共同特徵為多層次的穿法及混搭；審美個殊性則為誇張衝突型、纖瘦骨感型、可愛趣味型。2.在穿著動機上，個案藉由另類服飾來展示身體主權與服飾焦慮，構築服飾的幻想舞臺，同時也是一種社會化的歷程。3.不同的家庭環境背景、藝術教育經驗，大眾傳播媒體和西門町空間場域形塑了影響西門町青少年另類穿著之環境脈絡。

關鍵字

西門町；青少年次文化；另類服飾；審美思考；藝術教育

並列摘要

This study aimed to explore the thinking and wearing progression of adolescents with alternatively-wearing in Shimending, to understand their motivation, and to analyze the external factors that effect their alternatively-wearing. Five adolescents in Shimending were chosen as the participants in this research. Qualitative research methods including interview, observation and document analysis were applied in this study. The findings of this study are as follows: 1. Their alternatively-wearing styles include folk style, punk style, cute style, and retro style, Their common aesthetic of clothing were multiple layers and mix style, while the diverse types of theirs were exaggerative, thinny, and funny. 2. They wore alternative clothes to express their body authority, clothing anxiety, and to construct an illusional world, meanwhile, their behaviors were a process of socialization. 3. Different familial background, art educational experience, media and the environment in Shimending were the external factors that influence these adolescents' alternatively-wearing.