製作地方味：南投松柏坑茶區烏龍茶製作技術的變遷

Making Local Flavour: Changes in Processing Techniques of Oolong Tea in the Songbokeng Tea Area in Nantou

翁俊發(Jun-Fa Wong)

《中國飲食文化》 2卷2期 (2006/07) Pp. 121-163

https://doi.org/10.30152/JCDC.200607.0005

摘要

本文的研究課題爲南投松柏坑茶區近三十年烏龍茶感官標準變遷的過程，以田野參與實作及深度訪談的方式，分別從茶區、人、機具等三個影響製茶技藝的技術核心來探討這個變遷的過程。
在製茶工序中，茶農的製茶技術核心包括掌握茶葉物性、製作場所以及天候地理條件等不確定性，形成無法具體言說的默會知識，因而形成了茶葉紛陳多變的商品特質。在不同茶區之間，茶葉的感官標準便各自以地方性的技術知識論述建構而成。
茶葉的感官標準看似主觀，實則爲一套有秩序的生產知識規範而成。這套論述外顯於商品的述說，於生產過程中，則是茶農遵循的技術準則。然而，傳統並非一成不變，而是不斷地被重新定義。在松柏坑茶區的個案中，我們看到不同時期傳統的孕生，在此過程中，茶農扮演著知識傳遞與創新的重要角色。

關鍵字

感官標準 ； 烏龍茶 ； 製茶技藝 ； 地方知識 ； 默會知識 ； 傳統

並列摘要

The topic of the present article is the changes that have taken place in the last thirty years in the standards of taste for Oolong tea in the Songbokeng tea area of Nantou. These changes have been investigated by means of fieldwork, practical involvement, and in-depth interviews, and distinguish the geographic, human and technological factors influencing the core technologies in the processing of tea.
In the tea-making process, the core techniques employed by the tea farmers in processing tea include their mastery of the physical characteristics of tea leaves, the processing area, and the uncertainties of, climatic and geographic factors. These form a kind of implicit knowledge that is impossible to fully express in words. As a result, one of the characteristics of tea leaf as a commodity is its variety and changeability. Among various tea-growing areas, the standards of taste are constructed on the basis of a discourse of different local techniques and knowledge.
Standards of taste for tea leaf seem to be quite subjective, but in fact are regulated by knowledge of a set of sequenced production procedures. This discourse appears externally in the sales-talk about products, and in the course of production informs the techniques and standards followed by tea farmers. However, traditions are not unchanging, but are constantly being redefined. In the case of the Songbokeng tea area, we can see the gestation and birth of different traditions at different times. In this process, the tea farmers play an important role in the transmission of knowledge and in innovation.

並列關鍵字

standards of taste ； Oolong tea ； tea processing ； local knowledge ； implicit knowledge ； tradition

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