臺灣早餐外食現象與社會變遷分析（1980-2019）：以大臺北地區早餐店為例

本文說明1980年代臺灣自農業社會轉變為工商業社會之後，早餐店作為一新業種的發展過程，以「社會變遷」的概念，透過消費者與生產者的訪談與數據資料，解釋早餐店的興盛之因。首先，回顧1980年代早餐外食的飲食型態形成過程，夜生活盛行、婦女就業率提高等社會變遷，導致早餐店蓬勃發展。接著，以生產層面切入，探討在全球化下，經濟起伏隨著世界脈動的臺灣，二度就業或是欲轉行者選擇投入較低門檻的早餐店，進而發現早餐店的運作接近企業速食連鎖店的營運模式，以及冷凍食品的興起，使得臺灣人早餐維持「熱食」、培養「外食」的習慣。最後，以消費層面、再生產勞動的觀點切入，說明家庭三餐主要製備者──婦女的就業率提高，成員又必須通勤往返住家與工作地點，時間壓力下製備早餐成為家庭一大難題。加上家庭型態性別分工觀念轉變，早餐製備的任務轉由透過消費的行為，尋求早餐店取得。

關鍵字

早餐店；外食；社會變遷；速食；再生產勞動

並列摘要

This paper describes the development process of breakfast shops as a new business type after Taiwan's industrialization from an agricultural society in the 1980s. The breakfast shop boom is investigated through interviews with consumers and producers, and data analysis in the context of ＂social change＂. First, looking back at the 1980s, ＂eating out＂ was a process of dietary habit change. Social changes, including the rise of nightlife and the increased percentage of working women led to the breakfast shop boom. This paper then explores the boom from the production point of view. Investigation shows that the breakfast shop became a common choice for re-employment or professional change due to its low entry barriers, when Taiwan followed the global economic changes in globalization, and the rise in corporate chain fast food outlets was also observed. Furthermore, the rise of frozen food also enabled Taiwanese people to maintain the ＂hot food＂ habit and develop the ＂eating out＂ habit at the same time. Lastly, from the consumption and reproductive labor point of view, this paper explains how breakfast preparation became a big family problem, with the increase in time pressure on women who were the meal providers for their households. Women had an increasing re-employment rate, while other family members needed to commute between workplaces and home. Alongside the change in the concept of division of labor in the household, the provider of breakfast preparation shifted from women to breakfast shops.