法式早餐時間及形態的轉變：從第一餐到小早餐

French Breakfast Time and Patterns: From Déjeuner (first meal) to Petit(-)Déjeuner (little first meal)

蔡倩玟(Chienwen TSAI)

《中國飲食文化》 17卷2期 (2021/10) Pp. 9-34

摘要

法式早餐以熱飲為主（咖啡、茶、巧克力），搭配麵包類甜味輕食，沒有鹹食及烹煮過的菜餚。過去法語以＂déjeuner＂（字面義為「解除禁食狀態」）表一天中的第一餐，中午前後用餐＂diner＂為一天中最重要的一餐，晚上用餐＂souper＂內容較簡單。19世紀巴黎上流社會重視夜間社交娛樂活動，dîner時間日漸延後至晚上，由於早起至晚餐之間也需要用餐，déjeuner時間延至中午，形式也更像正餐，剛起床時喝熱飲配麵包的習慣便以＂petit(-)déjeuner＂稱之（petit意指「小型的」），之後影響到巴黎以外地區，大約20世紀中確立今日用法。本文將以飲食型態、用餐時間及詞彙含義轉變觀點探討法式早餐的現況及演變過程，首先從社會調查研究成果中探究今日法國早餐內容及其內外部性規則，再分析比較理想早餐及實際早餐之差異，之後從用餐時間的轉移及語言含義的轉換過程中，探討法國早餐輕簡及「重晚輕早」之原因。

關鍵字

用餐時間 ； 法式早餐 ； 第一餐 ； 飲食規則 ； 飲食型態

並列摘要

In the past, the word déjeuner in French referred to the first meal of the day (literal meaning 'to end a fast'), followed by dîner at noon or in the early afternoon (the main and largest meal of the day), and a light souper in the evening. In the 19th century, upper-class people in Paris enjoyed the nightlife and took dinner later and later into the evening. They needed to take a richer midday meal before dinner. Therefore, the meal déjeuner was taken at noontime, like lunch, and the custom of drinking hot drinks after waking up was called petit(-)déjeuner (petit means 'little').The change in eating habits extended from Paris to other areas, and was established by the middle of the 20th century. The French breakfast usually consists of hot coffee, tea or chocolate, accompanied by bread or some other sweet light food, without salty food or hot dishes. This article aims to discuss the evolution of the French breakfast in its sociological, historical and lexicographic context. In the first place, we will analyze the results of two questionnaire surveys about the French breakfast pattern, and try to find its internal and external rules. Second, the notion of an ideal breakfast will be compared with real breakfast. Third, we will examine the changes of French mealtimes and the terminology for meals, in order to comprehend why French breakfast is so light and fairly simple.

並列關鍵字

mealtime ； petit-déjeuner (French breakfast) ； déjeuner (French first meal/lunch) ； food rule ； meal pattern

參考文獻

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