我穿故我在－臺灣青少年初期街舞舞者藉由運動時尚穿著的自我塑造研究

I wear, therefore I am- research on how the apparel of Taiwanese young street dancers in the early stage redefines sports and fashion.

蘇志鵬(Chih-Peng Su) ； 王家玄(Chia-Hsuan Wang)

《運動管理》 37期 (2017/07) Pp. 16-33

摘要

街舞為臺灣近二十年來流行的次文化運動藝術，從街舞開始流行的初期，除了肢體之外，街舞舞者的穿著，亦逐漸形成一種帶有運動時尚的穿衣風格。然而街舞起源於1970年代美國黑人及中南美洲移民至紐約所創造的次文化，於1990年代開始流行於臺灣，時至今日，街舞在臺灣已經成為眾所皆知的運動藝術，而街舞舞者的穿著也成為青少年模仿與尋求認同的一個管道與出口。本文標題引用現代哲學之父，法國哲學家笛卡爾(Rene Descartes) 的名言，「我思故我在」(Cogito ergo sum / I think therefore I am)，將其改為「我穿故我在」，旨在說明臺灣初期街舞舞者透過模仿街舞舞者外在的穿著打扮 (髮型、帽子、頭巾、配件、鞋子、服裝) 來塑造其結合「運動」與「時尚」的自我形象，尋求自己在街舞文化內的認同。這種運動時尚的跨領域，也符合羅蘭．巴特(Roland Barthes)在其鉅作《流行體系》裡所言：(the sign of described fashion)，街舞運動即是可以描述時尚的符號。套用Veblen Thorstein的金錢穿著論 (pecuniart theory of dress)與 Simmel Georg的下滲理論 (trickle-down theory) 後發現，這種從模仿穿著入手的自我形象塑造，伴隨著金錢消費，會隨著街舞穿著創造者的質變不斷產生模仿者的量變，街舞穿著因此成為一種具有運動功能性與普遍可以接受的時尚流行穿著風格，街舞作為一種透過消費向「時尚」靠近的運動產業，其衍生出的運動時尚產品，消費者最終不再是消費運動產品的「功能」，而是運動時尚所帶來的附加「身分認同」與「感受」。

關鍵字

運動時尚 ； 笛卡爾 ； 自我認同 ； 金錢穿著論 ； 下滲理論

並列摘要

Street dance has been a trending sports and art form in Taiwanese subculture for the past two decades. Besides the popularity of street dance, its apparel has also become highly welcomed in the early stage of its development. Originated in 1970s African-American and South American migrant culture in New York, street dance spread throughout Taiwan in the 1990s. Until today, the widespread sports art and its outfits have become an icon for teenagers to imitate of and to build self-esteem on. The title of this article ＂I wear, therefore I am＂ quotes and rephrases the proposition ＂I think, therefore I am＂ by Rene Descartes, a French philosopher and the father of modern philosophy. It explains how early Taiwanese street dancers built self-esteem and seek recognition in terms of sports and fashion by copying the look of the dancers (hair styles, hats, headscarves, accessories, shoes, and clothes, etc.) The interdisciplinary between sports and fashion, corresponding to what Roland Barthes defined in Systeme de la mode, ＂the sign of described fashion,＂ is a symbol of fashion. Applying Veblen Thorstein's Pecuniary theory of Dress and Simmel Gerog's Trickle-down theory, the research has found that, along with the expenditure on the clothing, the result of copying behaviors increased. Also, with the qualitative change from the pioneer's style evolvement, the follower's wearing style also creates a quantitative change, and thus, street dance apparel becomes a commonly accepted sportswear. Seeing street dance as a fashion category in the sports industry, those dancers buy more products to show that they are more ＂trendy.＂ At the end of the day, consumers are no longer attracted by the function of the evolving wearing products of street dance, but the ＂recognition＂ and ＂feelings＂.

並列關鍵字

sports fashion ； Rene Descartes ； Self-identity ； pecuniart theory of dress ； trickle-down theory