客家地方特色產業的蛻變：以內埔花生豆腐為例

「花生豆腐」採用天然食材與傳統手工製法，成為內埔客家族群的特色食物。相關產業發展至今將近九十年，業者開店維生同時建立以客家口味為特色的市場利基，在2007年即成為屏東縣客家特色商品，使這傳承近百年的產業因歷史文化環境因素，加上相關產業群聚而形成地方特色產業，進而成為地方文化產業。本文從文化經濟的角度，探討「內埔花生豆腐」此一地方特色加工食品之發展歷程與產業形塑過程。以內容分析、訪談及觀察等質性研究，檢視內埔花生豆腐產業的發展脈絡、花生豆腐與客家族群間的連結，及內埔花生豆腐產業的整體環境現況及其所面臨的困境。研究結果發現，花生豆腐產業藉由搭上養生、健康的風潮，採取堅持手做工法的取向，製作出傳統客家風味、香醇濃郁及口感獨特的花生豆腐，顯示了不同於一般豆腐的、獨特的文化識別特徵，這使得客家文化成為傳承花生豆腐產業的最主要載體。最後進一步予以探討內埔花生豆腐的投入與生產、購買與接受、傳播與營銷，將客家人特色食物轉換增值成為兼具在地歷史性、文化性、獨特性之地方特色產業，以發揮內埔花生豆腐產業之在地價值。

關鍵字

花生豆腐；食品加工；客家特色食物；地方特色產業；文化經濟

並列摘要

＂Peanut Tofu＂ is based on natural ingredients and traditional manual technique. It is a featured food of Neipu Hakka. The development of related industry has been nearly 90 years. The industry launches the business by stores and establishes a market niche with Hakka flavor as the characteristic. In 2007, it became a Hakka featured product of Pingtung County. The industry of nearly one hundred years turns into a local characteristic industry with historic, cultural and environmental factors and clusters with related industries and results in the local cultural industry. From the perspective of the cultural economy, this study explores the development and industrial construction process of a local characteristic manufactured food ＂Peanut Tofu of Neipu＂. By qualitative research through content analysis, interview and observation, this study reviews development of the Peanut Tofu industry of Neipu, connection between Peanut Tofu and the Hakka and the overall present environment and obstacles of the Peanut Tofu industry of Neipu. According to research findings, the Peanut Tofu industry, in the trend of health, persists by manual technique and they make Peanut Tofu with traditional, rich and unique Hakka flavor and taste. It shows a unique cultural identity different from common Tofu. Therefore, Hakka culture becomes the most critical carrier of the Peanut Tofu industry. Finally, this study probes into engagement, production, purchase, acceptance, diffusion, operation and marketing of Peanut Tofu of Neipu. It enhances value of Hakka featured food as a historic, cultural and unique local characteristic industry in order to fulfill the local value of the Peanut Tofu industry of Neipu.