「慢」出好滋味－臺東縣縱谷地區慢食發展之研究

＂Slow＂ Process Good Taste: A Study of Slow Food Development in the Rift Valley Area, Taitung County

劉襄群(Hsiang-Chun Liu) ； 江昱仁(Yu-Jen Chiang)

《休閒與遊憩研究》 10卷2期 (2019/07) Pp. 1-44

https://doi.org/10.6157/ALRR.201907_10(2).0001

摘要

臺東縣縱谷地區有著乾淨無污染的環境，加上人文與地理交錯形成多元族群融合生活的特性，臺東縣政府自2012年起，選定此區域開始推動「一個人的產地餐桌」計畫，縱谷地區成為臺東慢食發展較早之地區，因此了解此區域業者經營發展有其重要性。本研究主要目的即在調查「一個人的產地餐桌」計畫參與業者參與前後之態度、過程中遭遇的挑戰、與小農生產連結的議題及參與計畫後對自身經營的影響。研究採質性研究法，資料蒐集方式透過半結構式訪談大綱進行深度訪談，以參加本計畫比賽獲選團隊的業者為訪談對象，共計9人。研究結果發現，隨著計畫參與時間增加，受訪業者漸次了解慢食之意涵，在態度上也從原有的觀望態度和個人效益取向，轉化成對土地生產倫理和對料理與族群文化連結的正視。在面對之挑戰部分，除經營方式改變產生之成本提高、利潤下降外，與小農配合的食材獲得是主要之議題，然而磨合過程，也逐漸與小農連結，更建立了在地小農和餐飲業者的夥伴網絡。在參與計畫後之影響部分，受訪業者多認為帶動了當地、當時令與環境友善生產認同，也帶動了自身族群文化認同和以飲食為認識族群文化的中介，在經濟上，則認為帶動了地方另類產業網絡的形成與平日商機增加，在社會面向則為帶動對在地認識的熱情，更帶動了一種人與人「相信」的關係。

關鍵字

慢食 ； 在地飲食 ； 飲食文化 ； 飲食觀光

並列摘要

The Rift Valley Area in Taitung County is an area that has been entirely free from factory pollution, abundance in clean nature, and distinctively features a fusion of multi-ethnic groups. Since 2012, Taitung Government has promoted it as the area for ＂The Project of a Single Person's Table of Origin,＂ namely, the birthplace of Taitung ＂Slow Food＂. It is important to understand the business development of project participatants in this area. The main purpose of this study is to investigate: the attitude of interviewees who participated in this project before and after the participations; Challenges and difficulties encountered in the process, issues linked to local small-scale farmers, Perceived impacts produced after participating in this project. The data were collected from in-depth interview from nine interviewees who are business owners participating in this project and pragmatically operating stores within the Taitung Rift Valley area. Main results are as follows: 1. As the time for project counseling increased, the interviewees gradually learned the meaning of slow food. 2. The attitude of interviewees transformed from the wait-and-see and personal benefit orientation into the understanding of land production ethics and the connection between cuisine and local culture. 3. In the face of the challenges, in addition to the cost increase and profit decline caused by changes in business operation, the acquisition of local ingredients in cooperation with local small scale farmers is the main issue. Though the running-in process was happened, the connection between local small scale farmers and interviewed business operators was gradually established. 4. It is shown that the identity of local production environment and ethnic identity were promoted, and the cusine could be used as an intermediary to understand ethnic culture after the participation in the project. In economic terms, it is shown that the alternative industrial networks were formed and the weekdays- business opportunities were also increased. In social terms, it is shown that the promotion of enthusiasm for local cognition, and ＂believe＂ relationship among people.

並列關鍵字

Slow food ； Local cuisine ； Food culture ； Food tourism

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