分配摺學－動態摺紙應用於服裝版型實驗

＂FILOSOPHY of Space Allocation＂ Clothing Pattern Experiment Based on Action Origami Concept

金蓓雯(Pei-Wen Jin) ； 黃莉婷(Li-Ting Huang)

《實踐設計學報》 13期 (2019/11) Pp. 142-159

摘要

摺紙藝術是一門無關加減的「分配藝術」，單憑建立於幾何科學根基上的「摺」的操作，將有限的空間做出最合宜的配置，本研究主題「分配摺學－FILOSOPHY of Space Allocation」，其中FILOSOPHY為F（Folding）與philosophy的結合，也就是中文的「摺學」，希望能創造出讓穿著者體會到摺之韻味的服裝版型，服裝中的「褶」與摺紙中的「摺」，兩者間特性相似，都是將平面材料轉化成立體結構的過程與狀態，同時經由維度的轉換產生出新的空間，本研究將從動態摺紙藝術中的分配概念出發，以數學尺規視角解構人體密碼，再以自然施力成摺的角度回推驗證，將動態摺紙的形態轉化為面料，觀察人體如何在面料的動態中，尋找到最適切的暫留角度，進而帶來最恰當的空間配置，借此重新定義服裝與人體間的關係。

關鍵字

動態摺紙 ； 版型 ； 分配 ； 身體空間

並列摘要

Origami is a kind of art that is irrelevant to addition and subtraction. Actually, it is about allocation. Origami can complete the most perfect configuration with limited space only by relying on the operation of folding which is based on geometric science. The subject of this study-FILOSOPHY is the combination of the folding and philosophy, looking forward to create a whole new clothing pattern that enables wearer to appreciate the charm and feeling of folds. Folds in origami and folds in clothing have very similar characteristics. They are both a process transforming planer materials to 3D structures. At the same time, a new space is created through the transformation of dimensions. This study will start from the concept of allocation based on action origami. Decrypt the encrypted messages of body via mathematical perspective. And certificate the discussion by the point of view of folding patterns that were shaped by natural force. The form of action origami will be converted into fabric. I will observe how body finds the most suitable temporary angle in the dynamic of the fabric, which leads to the most appropriate space allocation. And redefine the relationship of body and clothing.

並列關鍵字

Action origami ； Clothing patterns ； Allocation ； Space of body