香水設計＆廣告對性別文化的詮釋趨勢

The Interpretation Shift of Gender Culture Shaped in the Design & Advertising of the Perfume

陳慧娟(Hui-Chuan Chen)

《設計研究》 3期 (2003/07) Pp. 22-32

https://doi.org/10.30178/SJYJ.200307.0003

摘要

香水廣告是一個精緻地操縱慾望形象的文化現象。從最古早西元前13,000年人類就開始焚香供奉神的角色，之後皇家貴族用來取悅感官，到1868年的合成香水出現，直到現在成為民生用品。香水既是挑動人類原始慾望的符號，也是現代性別文化詮釋的重要產品。本文以1994年為時間的分水嶺，取材名列在素有香水奧斯卡獎之稱的FiFi獎的香水品牌，分析三類香：「女用香水」、「男用香水」和「女用男用的香水組」其香水瓶的設計、香水命名和香水廣告影像對於性別文化的詮釋趨勢。發現1994年之後的香水設計，在廣告訴求上的性別文化詮釋，出現四個趨勢（1）家庭成員關係與角色分工不再刻板化，以單一標準模式呈現（2）傳統和轉型中的男女社會期待角色尚存在著矛盾（3）性愛角色平等，男性和女性的性魅力在消費市場上均具賣點（4）性別形象界線趨於模糊，男性和女性典型兩極化的形象向中間靠攏。女性主義意識的抬頭，改變了原本父權嚴謹控制下的性別文化詮釋。截然地依生物學的性別分野（例如籠統地的稱女性消費者）所構成的設計文化，已經不足以對應現實生活中性別文化詮釋的多元光譜。設計行銷策略的運用，唯有更精緻地定位消費者性別為更小眾的、更多層次、多組合性的文化傾向，才可能取得致勝先機。

關鍵字

香水 ； 性別 ； 設計 ； 文化 ； 廣告

並列摘要

The design of perfume advertising sophisticatedly manipulated the image of human desire as the cultural phenomena. First records of fragrance use date back to ancient Schumer civilization some 15,000 years ago to put gods/goddesses into a pleasant mood. Until today the perfume is the daily cosmetic. The perfume is not only the sign of human desire but also the important product for interpretation of gender culture. This study was conducted to investigate, after 1994, the interpretation shift of gender culture in the design and advertising of the perfume. All materials came from the list of ”FiFi winner” -the ”Oscars” of the fragrance world (Since 1973). The FiFi winners in three categories as follows, ”Woman perfume”, ”man perfume” and ”woman and man perfume series” were selected as the samples and compared the difference in two different stages. The interpretation of the perfume bottle, the perfume name and the gender image of male and female in perfume advertising were deciphered. The tendency of gender culture towards (1) family image is more than one stereotypical definition; (2) the traditional roles of male and female is contradictory shifting to a new definition; (3) more equality of sex and love happened between women and men; (4) the boundary for traditional gender definition is blurred. New design strategy of marketing, today, should not fix on the stereotypical definition of gender boundary and should reshape and reposition the gender culture of diversified consumers sophisticatedly to face up to competition.

並列關鍵字

Perfume ； gender ； design ； culture ； advertising