京劇服裝管理諸面向之原理與內涵

傳統京劇的衣箱管理的師傅稱為「箱管」，對於表演服裝，有一套獨特的管理方式。不量身製作、不將服裝吊掛處理，不同於現行的服裝管理，根據其工作內容又有各自的名稱，如：大衣箱、二衣箱、旗把箱、梳頭桌等。是一支組織分工嚴密、技術性強的演出服務團隊。傳統京劇的服裝管理經由前輩藝人實踐、調整、修正，在考慮經濟效益、環境、舞台效果等因素後所形成的系統，是具有價值的經驗。本研究旨在探究傳統京劇在服裝管理的分工、制度以及形成的環境與原由，希望透過研究，探索傳統服裝管理所蘊含的思維模式。因此本研究的研究問題如下：壹、傳統京劇服裝管理的分工、流程、制度以及特殊性為何？貳、形成京劇服裝管理的環境與思維為何？參、京劇服裝管理的應用價值為何？本研究以史學方法做為研究方法，對京劇箱管人員，進行觀察與訪談，彙整訪談稿與觀察稿，記錄京劇「箱管」的制度與系統，並對其形成的環境與思維做探討。研究發現，京劇服裝將相同特質的人物「類型化」，發展出了四十餘種服裝的型式種類，用以裝扮古今中外所有的劇中人物。這種類型化具有“通用性”，表現了京劇的藝術概括力，在服裝管理上是一項非凡的創造。以摺疊收納的管理方式，有效率的利用有限的後台空間，是極具參考的管理方式，為服裝管理提供不同的選擇。

關鍵字

服裝管理；衣箱；京劇服裝；箱管

並列摘要

The title of the professional who managed the apparel and accessories of Beijing opera performers was ＂Xiang Guan＂ in which ＂Xiang＂ means ＂box＂ and ＂Guan＂ means ＂manager＂. The apparel was not custom-made, and was not hung in a wardrobe as it is managed today. The boxes were classified into ＂large (primary) box＂, ＂secondary box＂, ＂flag box＂, and ＂hair box＂ etc. A Beijing opera troupe was a well-organized work group of professionals with various skill sets, including apparel management. A troupe stages a performance by collaboration. John Dewey (1859-1952) recognized ＂learning by doing＂ as a scientific methodology. The same methodology was applied by Beijing opera apparel management professionals who formulated the apparel management system by doing and making necessary adjustments with considerations in various factors such as economic effects, environment, and stage effects. These are valuable experience. The objectives of this study are for the exploration of the various tasks, system, environments, and causes leading to the development of the apparel management system of traditional Beijing opera. The research hopes to explore the thinking behind the traditional Beijing opera apparel management. Focuses of this study are shown in the following questions. I. What are the various tasks, work flow, system, and characteristics in traditional Beijing opera apparel management? II. What were the environments and thinking that led to the formulation of Beijing opera apparel management as a special skill? III. What are the values of Bejing opera apparel management? This research project was conducted in accordance with the methodology for studying historical events. The researcher observed and interviewed box management professionals. The box management methodology and system are documented in this study. The researcher also studied and documented the environments and thinking which led to the box management system in this study. The researcher found out that Beijing opera apparel management professionals classified the apparel into more than 40 types based on the types or characteristics of roles performed by the current and past performers. ＂Generalization＂ was observed in the apparel management. This expressed the generalization characteristics in Beijing opera art. It is an extraordinary achievement in apparel management. The apparel is folded neatly in order to make use the limited backstage space. This apparel management is very efficient and provides various options in apparel management.