從農忙點心到常民飲食－萬丹人的飯湯

From Rice-Reaping Dimsum to Common Dish A Study of “Png-thng” in Wandan

林宥嫻(Yu-Hsien Lin)

《屏東文獻》 17期 (2013/12) Pp. 49-90

摘要

本文以屏東縣萬丹鄉為研究場域，記錄飯湯的形成背景以及割稻生活經驗，勾勒出獨屬萬丹的地方風味；並描繪出當地社群習以為常的飯湯飮食文化，如何以各種面貌頻繁的現身於生活中，形成地方獨特的飮食圖研究發現，萬丹小農耕作模式與相互換工的傳統，發展出「倒稻排」的割稻方式。割稻飯的用餐時間，因應「倒稻排」而調整，形成三餐正餐加一次點心的「呷四頓」形式，顛覆傳統割稻飯一天吃五餐的認知。當地居民「習慣熱食、喜多湯水且具有飽足感」的飮食傾向，發展出“飯菜混食” “以湯拌飯”的特殊米食料理－「飯湯」。「飯湯」原為農婦挑到田裡食用的「點心」，在田埂邊同鍋共食的飲食經驗，逐漸成為當地割稻飯的代名詞。「飯湯」深深影響當地婚喪喜慶、廟會節慶、居家及外賣的飲食內涵，成為地方性飲食文化的代表。從生產到食用，沒有高級的食材、精細的刀工，更無繁文褥節的進食儀式，完全呈現地方性格。

關鍵字

飯湯 ； 割稻飯 ； 呷菜頭 ； 地方風味

並列摘要

Wandan Township, Pingtung County is the research field of the study. The research records the development of Png-thng and local rice-reaping experiences, thus portraying the unique Wandan life style and illustrating how the local food, Png-thng, appears in Wandan citizens’ daily lives and has become a token of local food culture. The research has found that peasant farming and worker exchanges, the two farming traditions in Wandan, led to a type of rice-reaping way which makes rice stemps fallen while reaping. Unlike traditional rice-reaping food which includes five meals a day，a new dietary habit was developed: three main meals and a sneak per day. Since local people prefer having hot, watery, and feel-full food, a certain rich dish, Png-thng, was developed based on the rules of “mixture of rice and vegetables” and “rice served in soup.” Png-thng used to be a kind of “snack” served in fields when farmers farmed. Due to the life experience of sharing the same pot of Png-thng in fields, Png-thng has gradually become the same meaning of local rice-reaping food. Png-thng deeply influenced Wandan citizens in various aspects such as wedding ceremonies, funerals, temple fairs, festivals, and diets. Therefore, Png-thng can be viewed as a representation of local food culture. No exquisite ingredients, fine knife skills, or complicated table manners is needed in the process of making and serving Png-thng, which totally shows its local character.

並列關鍵字

Png-thng ； rice-reaping food ； chiah-chhai-thau ； local character