三種二胜肽之化妝品功能性評估

本研究以自行合成的短鏈胜肽 Phe-Ala（FA）、Phe-Arg（FR）、Phe-Try（FY）為活性原料，設計配方進一步製備出三組胜肽乳液，並利用多功能膚質檢測儀（The Multi Probe Adapter System^®）進行美白、保濕及抗發炎活性評估實驗。自製乳液黏度值經測定為 19680 cP，屬於低黏度延展性乳液劑型。於塗抹前、塗抹後1、2與 24小時等四個測試時間點，以Mexameter^®檢測膚色變化及再以Corneometer^®分析皮表水分含量。在降低黑色素含量部份，FY乳液效果最為出色，在第2小時與未塗抹baseline區相較有顯著差異（p＜0.001）。在保濕活性評估實驗中，FA乳液呈現最好的長效保濕性（p＜0.001），FY乳液則在2小時內的短效保濕特性較突出。另一方面，本研究以Mexameter^®、Corneometer^®及Tewameter^®分析皮膚在30% sodium dodecyl sulfate（SDS）刺激前後，皮膚紅斑程度、水分含量與經皮水分散失率的變化，以評估胜肽乳液的抗發炎與修復角質屏障之活性。結果顯示FY整體表現較為均衡，FR在舒緩紅斑反應及修復表皮水合能力的部份亦有良好的效果，而FA則僅於水合能力展現較明顯的效果。整體而言，FY是最具有美白、保濕與抗發炎多功能應用潛力的合成短鏈胜肽。綜合胜肽乳液活性評估實驗結果顯示，FA、FR及FY分別展現不同的特徵效果，說明了序列對於胜肽活性表現的絕對影響力。利用膚質檢測儀器來評估製品的功能性，對活性原料研究開發與產品功效驗證，具有高度價值。未來將更深入探討合成胜肽序列與生物活性之間的對應關係，相信有助於開發出更多具備應用價值的活性成分。

關鍵字

化妝品；短鏈胜肽；功能性評估；美白；保濕；抗發炎；經皮水分散失；紅斑

並列摘要

Three kinds of peptides preparations, Phe-Ala (FA), Phe-Arg (FR), Phe-Try (FY), were formulated and prepared in our study. The Multi Probe Adapter System is used to evaluate the whitening, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory activity of peptide treatment. The viscosity value of self-made emulsion is 19680 centipoise, as a low viscosity emulsion formulations. The whitening and moisturizing efficacy was evaluated by Mexameter^® and Corneometer^®, Measurements were performed before and after 1, 2 and 24 hours treatment. FY lotion showed the best whitening effect. The differences between the baseline area and FY emulsion treated area is significant (p ＜0.001). FA emulsion showed the best long-term moisture retention (p ＜0.001). For the evaluation of the anti-inflammatory activity of peptide treatment, the skin erythema levels, moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured before and after 30% SDS stimulation. The results showed that FY emulsion possess balanced overall performance, FR emulsion could relief erythema response well, while FA emulsion was only possess hydration ability. Overall, FY is the most valuable multi-function peptide ingredient. As the different characteristics of dipeptides, indicating the key factor of amino acid sequence.

並列關鍵字

Cosmetics ； Short-chain peptide ； Efficacy evaluation ； Whitening ； Hydration ； Anti-inflammation ； Trans-epidermal water loss ； Erythema

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