多元醇促進維生素C醣苷之經皮傳輸與功效性評估

本研究自製含維生素C醣苷（Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, AA2G）之精華液配方，並探討添加20％丁二醇（1,3-Butylene Glycol, 1,3-BG）促透劑對於經皮傳輸與化妝品功效性之影響，研究分別以in vitro及in vivo方式進行。使用Franz-type擴散槽的In vitro經皮傳輸實驗結果顯示，配方A（含1,3-BG）穿透率215.43μg/cm^2比配方B（未含1,3-BG）158.08μg/cm^2高，1小時後的穿透比率分別為施藥原始量之0.97%與0.54%，證明1,3-BG對AA2G具有促透效果。使用表皮水分測定儀與黑紅色素測定儀，In vivo 探究1,3-BG對AA2G保濕與美白功效影響的實驗結果顯示，在10位受試者使用1小時的短效測試中，表皮水分含量方面，配方A使皮膚水含量提高26.80％與配方B水分含量提高28.19％效果相近。配方A使黑色素量減少6.71％，配方B使皮膚黑色素量減少4.87％，表示AA2G對於黑色素有抑制效果。在皮膚紅色素方面，配方B使皮膚紅色素量提高2.20％，配方A能使紅色素量減少1.01％，表示添加1,3-BG增加AA2G之美白功效達37.78％，並可舒緩AA2G所引起之輕微刺激性紅斑現象。

關鍵字

維生素C醣苷；多元醇；丁二醇；經皮傳輸；功效性評估

並列摘要

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G) serum with 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) penetration enhancer was prepared by ourselves and investigated by transdermal delivery analysis and in vivo efficacy evaluation. The transdermal delivery profiles were determined in vitro using a Franz-type diffusion cell and pig skin membrane. The results showed higher transdermal flux (215.43μg/cm^2) and shorter lag time (0.15hr) for tested serum with 1,3-BG ingredient compared with controlled serum which without 1,3-BG added. The presence of 1,3-BG in the tested serum was proved to enhance the in vitro AA2G transdermal delivery profiles. The water content of stratum corneum was determined by Corneometry, the skin color and the skin irritation were evaluated by the Mexameter. Ten subjects have been entered on the study and shown the increasing rate of skin hydration was 26.80% provided by the serum with enhancer through the one hour examination. But there was no significant difference between the serum with and without 1,3-BG enhancer. The decreasing rates of skin melanin content for tested serum and controlled serum were 6.71% and 4.87%, respectively. These results indicate that both of them provided skin-whitening effect, and tested serum also could provide some anti-irritant efficacy for the AA2G.

並列關鍵字

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G) ； Polyol ； 1,3-Butylene glycol (1,3-BG) ； Transdermal delivery ； Efficacy evaluation

參考文獻

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多元醇促進維生素C醣苷之經皮傳輸與功效性評估

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