刺五加萃取物之體外美白防曬功效評估

In vitro skin whitening and SPF boosting effects of eleutherococcus senticosus extracts

鐘薇箮(Wei-Hsuan Chung) ； 徐照程(Jaw-Cherng Hsu)

《弘光學報》 64期 (2011/09) Pp. 126-137

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201109.64.10

摘要

本研究乾燥刺五加莖葉研磨後以95%乙醇迴流加熱得粗萃物，再以不同極性溶劑分離，冷凍乾燥獲得水層(E-W)、乙酸乙酯層(E-EA)、己烷層(E-Hex)三種分配萃取物。由DPPH法測定抗氧化力結果，IC_(50)依序為E-W (6.57 mg/ml) ＜ E-Hex (7.99 mg/ml) ＜ E-EA (10.00mg/ml)。500 ppm E-W抑制率為40 %，顯現較銀杏與川紅花萃取更優異功效。總酚含量測定E-W之總酚含量（480.90 mg of GAE /g）高於E-EA（411.60 mg of GAE /g）與E-Hex（299.90 mg of GAE /g）。其中E-W優於訴求低敏美白功效的葛根和訴求美白抗老化功效的黃岑。本研究以體外酪胺酸酶抑制法，探討在2.70 mg/g濃度下三種刺五加萃取之抑制率大小依序為E-W (55.89%)＞E-EA (35.47%)＞E-Hex(12.08 %)。其中E-W萃取物IC_(50) (2.42 mg/ml)優於黃芩文獻值。以刺五加萃取液為活性原料，設計防曬霜配方並利用體外SPF分析法，評估其SPF促進功效結果顯示，未添加萃取液防曬霜SPF值為21.32 ± 5.44。添加3%E-W於配方中測得SPF值為36.23 ±6.69，SPF促進率41.2 %。添加濃度與SPF提升效果有正相關，綜上所述可知本研究刺五加E-W萃取物可為化妝品兼具抗氧化美白及促進SPF功效之新式原料。

關鍵字

刺五加 ； 化妝品活性 ； 美白 ； 抗氧化 ； SPF促進

並列摘要

Cosmetic activity of alcoholic crude extract of stem and leave of Eleutherococcus Senticosus, and its water, ethyl acetate and hexane partition fractions (E-W, E-EA and E-Hex) were evaluated in this study. E-W extract possess highest DPPH radical scavenging effect (ID_(50):6.57 mg/ml), all showed stronger values than Scutellaria baicalensis. The total amount of phenolic compounds of E-W extract (480.90 mg of GAE /g) is much higher than Pueraria pseudo-hirsuta (0.96 mg/g) which was well-known for anti-oxidation property. E-W partition fraction presented inhibition of tyrosinase activity at the IC_(50) value of 4.70 mg/ml, showed higher whitening potential than Scutellaria baicalensis. The SPF-boosting properties of extracts were evaluated by in vitro SPF assay. Results shows formulation contains E-W fraction, boosted the SPF value from 21.32 ± 5.44 to 36.23 ± 6.69. Our study suggested that E-W partition fraction may have a promising potential for use as a novel cosmetic ingredient.

並列關鍵字

Eleutherococcus Senticosus ； Siberian ginseng ； cosmetic activities ； anti-oxidation ； skin whitening ； SPF boosting

參考文獻

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