- 期刊
辛基甲氧基桂皮酸鹽微脂粒之製備及其防曬功效
Preparation and Sun Protective Effect of Liposomes Containing Octyl Methoxycinnamate
摘要
本研究將微脂粒(Liposome)載體技術應用於防曬化妝品之製備，首先嘗試比較五種不同來源卵磷脂之原料，研究發現最佳卵磷脂原料為美國Solae公司之Soy Lecithin Fluid，隨之搭配助溶劑1,3-丁二醇(1，3-Butylene glycol，簡稱1,3-BG)，將微脂粒包覆疏水性防曬劑辛基甲氧基桂皮酸鹽(Octyl methoxycinnamate ;OMC)，以期提高防曬效能。而本研究利用高壓均質技術製備包覆微脂粒，探討有無添加助溶劑、不同脂質比例及防曬劑量不間，對微脂粒之粒徑大小、防曬效能及安定性之影響。研究發現，有添加1,3-BG的微脂粒配方之粒徑比無添加1,3-BG減少0.3~97.6%，可推斷1,3-BG助溶劑可使配方中的脂質分散更均勻。進而利用微脂粒包覆OMC(濃度為10%-50%)，粒徑範團約230-280nm，且將未包覆與包覆OMC入O/W乳化配方，並以體外(in vitro)法測定其SPF值，結果OMC 50-lotion比未包覆OMC(UOMC-lotion)大5.2倍。另改變脂質濃度(2%~4%)，發現對粒徑影響不大，但體外測定SPF值時則是OMC 50_2-lotion表現最為理想。由以上研究得知欲得較佳防曬效能之微脂粒組成，條件為添加1,3-BG助溶劑，脂質濃度2%。藉由UV破壞加速試驗(302 nm，17.5 J/cm^2曝曬二小時)，未包覆之OMC防曬劑衰退31%，微脂粒包覆OMC只衰退12%。由此可證本研究所製備之微脂粒載體可增加化學防曬劑之光安定性。
並列摘要
Liposomes containing UV filter were successfully prepared by high-pressure homogenization technique in this study. Of the five sources of lecithin ingredient were compared and the results showed that Solae Soy Lecithin Fluid is the best. The influence of preparation parameters such as co-solvent addition, lipid ratio and dose of UV filter on the liposome particle size, UV-protection efficacy and stability were also evaluated. The particle size of liposome-encapsulated OMC was smaller by the 1, 3-butylene glycol co-solvent addition. The particle size of liposome-encapsulated OMC was about 230 nm to 280 nm. The UV protection efficacy of sunscreen formulated with liposome-encapsulated OMC was better than traditional OMC sunscreen by 5.2 times. Lipid concentration showed little effect on particle size. The best preparation parameters were 1, 3-butylene glycol and 2% lipid addition. The SPF value of traditional OMC sunscreen was decline in accelerated UV exposure tests, on the contrary liposome-encapsulated OMC was only decline 12%. Summarize results showed novel liposome-encapsulated OMC ingredient possess excellent UV protection efficacy and photo-stability.