應用性權力觀分析女性流行雜誌中服飾與身體之性論述

The analysis of clothing and body discussions within Chinese ELLE fashion magazines based upon concepts of sexual right

林燕卿(Yen-Chin Lin) ； 黃偉宙(Wei-Chou Huang)

《人文社會電子學報》 3卷1期 (2007/06) Pp. 12-19

https://doi.org/10.30134/STOSHSS.200706.0002

摘要

本研究的目的藉著服飾設計與性學結合，並以傅柯『性史』卷一中的權力分析，來探究女性流行雜誌中服飾所隱涵的性意識及如何展佈，並解釋傅柯權力應用於目前台灣社會及女性流行雜誌的適用性及侷限性，另也藉由資料的收集與呈現使服飾設計研究者有所參照與應用。以2001 年出刊《她》（ELLE）時尚雜誌為論述分析的對象所得的結果如下：1. 雜誌文本呈現出的西方優越文化意識：文本中皆已西方身體美學和性認同類屬為參照標準，使如此的影像論述符號有形無形地灌輸所欲傳達的優越「性意識」，促使女性消費者因其對完美女體的嚮往，投入資金與精力不斷的改造自己，相對地女性專注的專業領域時間不若男性，而有所落差。2. 法律領域分析：法律制定人體可展現與不可展現的部份，亦也規劃性關係對於不符合主流家庭夫妻的性關係，則多以「污名」或「不合法」的敘述，強調對/錯、是/非的道德規定標準，轉化成主動的掌控力量與機制。3. 知識領域分析：藉由專家之事的權力運作建構一套系統來解釋週遭的世界，從中作分類、排除、規則制定、資格限制等工作，另以統計數據，各個專業領域告知身體的對/錯、正常/不正常、美/醜引誘消費者進行修正或補強的動作。4. 廣告領域分析：運用大量西方白種中產階級年輕女性的體態為準則，強調白皙、纖細、修長、細腰、豐臀、年輕的條件與要素，預設為男性所想窺視的模式，將女體放置在被看的被動對象，人類自然的生理週期轉變及差異被刻意的消除，強調規格和一致的標準美之性意識，廣告變成身體意識的「訓育機制」使的人們不論在身、心及社會層面受到權力的機制掌控。5. 雜誌中服飾與身體是具有性意識意義的，應用「再現」與「召喚」使得不同的類屬相互匯流及協議造成去穩定的狀態。

關鍵字

性意識 ； 系普學 ； 法律 ； 知識 ； 廣告

並列摘要

This research, combining fashion design and sexuality, additionally applies the concept of power in the Michael Foucault’s ＂the history of sexuality＂ to analyze the hidden sex ideology in the women fashion magazine and understand how it expands. Besides this research explains the applicability and the limitations of Foucault’s theories on the nowadays Taiwan society and women fashion magazine. By collecting and presenting data, it let the fashion design researchers have rules to follow and utilize. By analyze the ELLE of year 2001, a fashion magazine, it can be summarized as the following： 1. The context of magazine presents the superior western culture ideology：It uses the western physical aesthetics and sex identification as referring standards to let such imaginary symbols expressing superior sex ideology push the female consumers pursue the perfect body of spending money to reform themselves. Respectively, the time spent by the women in the professional fields is much less than the men. 2. Analysis on the law field：The law enacts the performable and not performable part of body and outlines the rules of main-stream sexual relationship between husband and wife, by the infamous or illegal statement, emphasizing right or wrong moral judgment standard to transform it as active control power and mechanism. 3. Analysis on the knowledge field：By utilizing the power of professional knowledge to construct a system to explain the surrounding world to classify, exclude, make rules, limit qualification. According to the statistical data, each professional field to tell the body about right or wrong, normal/abnormal, beautiful/ugly, to induce consumers correcting or reinforcing. 4. Analysis on the advertisement field：Using the western white mid-class young women’s body as a standard to emphasize the white, slim, young conditions and features to preset the models as the men would like to peek. Putting the women’s body as a passive objection to be watched. The naturally periodical transformation and diversification of human is to be erased on purpose to emphasize the sex ideology of consistently standard beauty. The advertisement becomes ruling mechanism of body sense to let the people under its control on matter in the aspect of body, heart and society. 5. The clothes and body in the magazine has the meaning of the sex ideology to form a stable condition by using reforming and recalling to let the different types of classification influx and negotiate.