Michelin Stars Over China: The Place of France in Shanghai's Culinary Contact Zones

Jamers Farrer

《CHINESE FOOD CULTURE in EUROPE FRENCH FOOD CULTURE in ASIA.》 第14屆 (2015/10) Pp. 10-1-10-26

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.14.2015.08

並列摘要

Cosmopolitan dining scenes are a increasingly important feature of the cultural geography of Asia's global cities, including Shanghai. Shanghai has a long association with western restaurants since the late 19th century, with French cuisine playing a significant role. Following the Maoist experiment in strict culinary nationalism in the 1960s, an international restaurant scene rapidly returned to the city as incomes rose in the 1990s. Since the 2000s, a fine dining scene created by migrant star chefs and offering creative cosmopolitan offerings is centered in distinct culinary contact zones of the city. This paper describes the development of Shanghai's culinary contact zones, and shows how French cuisine plays a central role in Shanghai's cosmopolitan culinary imaginary both in the past and contemporary era. Even before Michelin arrives in the PRC, the anticipation of a Michelin Shanghai city guide is influencing the culinary culture of the city.