飲茶文化的歷史

A History of Tea-Drinking Culture

布目潮渢(Nunome Chōfu)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第2屆 (1993/07) Pp. 71-87

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1993.02.06

摘要

(一)世界の飲料としての茶 飲茶は中国文化が世界に伝播したもので､今や茶はコーヒーと並んで､世界の二大飲料となっている｡しかしその飲茶の内容は様々であって､緑茶が中国､日本で飲まれており､紅茶が欧米で飲まれ､また日本では､最近､烏龍茶の需要が増大した｡しかし歴史的に見れば､緑茶が飲茶の主流であり､紅茶･烏龍茶は緑茶から後に派生したものである｡(ニ)緑茶製法の歴史 緑茶の製法は､1,茶採み､2.加熱､3.揉捻､4.乾燥の四工程からなる｡しかし現在では､2.加熱が中国では釜炒りによって行われるのに対して､日本では蒸しているが､蒸す製法は日本の開発ではなく､古くから中国で行われていた｡また緑茶は現在では葉茶が中心であるが(日本の抹茶は例外)､葉茶が中国緑茶の主流となるのは､明代からであり､それ以前､皇帝はじめ上流階層は､固形茶に一度製茶した後に､粉末にして飲んでおり､この起源は晋代まで文献によってさかのぼることができる(杜育の荈賦)｡唐代の陸羽の『茶経』は､固形茶を餅茶として､その製法を詳細に記述し､末代の龍鳳茶の製法はその延長線上にある｡(三)茶器の歴史 飲茶文化史の研究には､茶器が大きな資料となる｡唐代の餅茶の粉末は釜の中で湯の沸騰によって点てていたが､宋代になると､茶碗の中で点てるようになり､ここに茶筅ヤ湯を沸す湯瓶が必要になる｡明代から葉茶が中心になると､日本で言う急須(中国では茶壷･茶注)が必要になる｡現在の中国大陸では､茶杯に直接に葉茶をいれて飲んでいる｡また『茶経』のように､餅茶を粉末にして飲むと､日本の抹茶を用いる茶道と茶器が共通してくる｡さらに日本の葉茶を用いる煎茶道と､中国明代の茶器とも当然共通してくる｡

並列摘要

( I ) Tea as a world drink The custom of tea-drinking originated In China, and tea has now become one of the two big drinks of the world, together with coffee. But there are many ways of drinking tea: green tea is drunk in China and Japan, and black tea is drunk in Europe and America. In Japan the demands for oolong tea has lately risen also. From the historical point of view, however, green tea is the main current of drinking tea, and black tea and oolong tea have developed from green tea.( IT) History of the way of making green tea The way of making green tea consists of the following four processes:(1)tea plucking, (2) roasting, (3)rolling, (4) firing. Now in China tea is roasted in a big pan, while in Japan it is steamed. The method of steaming was not originated in Japan, but had been the old custom of China. Green tea is now mainly made of the tea leaves ( tea dust or mo-ch'a＜抹茶＞in Japan is an exception ) , In China, leaf tea became the main style of green tea drinking only in the Ming Dynasty. Before the Ming Dynasty, emperors and people of the upper classes had been drinking tea in powder form, once making it into tea cakes. This custom can be traced back to the Chin Dynasty through documents( The Chuan-fu＜荈賦＞by Tu y u＜杜育＞. In The Ch'a-ching＜茶経＞,Lu yu＜陸羽＞of the Tang Dynasty wrote in detail on the method of making ping-ch 'a＜餅茶＞ , a kind of cake tea. Lung-fung-ch'a＜龍鳳茶＞of the Sung Dynasty was made according to this way.( ill) History of the tea set The tea se t provides very important materials for the study of the history of tea-drinking. The powder of ping-ch'a in the Tang Dynasty is made by boiling water in an iron pot. But in the Sung Dynasty it came to be made in a tea cup, when the ch'a-hsien＜茶筅＞and the kettle to boil water in became necessary. After leaf tea became the main cur-rent of tea in the Ming Dynasty, the kyu-su＜急須＞ in Japan, (茶壺或茶注in China) became necessary. Now in the Chinese Continent, they drink leaf tea directly from their tea-cups.If we drink ping-ch'a in powder form as we read in the Ch'a-Ching, we can share the tea ceremony＜茶道＞and the tea set which is used in dust form, or mo-cli'a in Japan. Moreover, we can use in common the sen-cha tea ceremony＜煎茶道＞, the way of making leaf tea in Japan, and the tea set of the Ming Dynasty in China.