飲酒與歌唱：西南山地族群的生態、食俗與文化──兼論「華夷聯繫」與「禮失求野」

討論中國飲食文化，有兩個問題值得注意，一是其漫長傳統之中，包括地緣與族群等要素在內的多元特徵；另一則是日常生活中，飲食與行為之間的動態關聯。本文以西南山區個族村賽的「吃相思」習俗和苗族「吃牯臟」為例，嘗試對這兩個特性做初步分析。中國古代儒家所倡導的詩學精神，對藝術和禮樂的功能有四點強調，即：興、觀、群、怨──也就是抒發、觀賞、凝聚和宣洩；又說「禮失求諸野」，即：禮樂來自野、存於野，並且可再造於野。本文的看法是，以苗族「吃牯臟」和個族「吃相思」等為代表的「集眾飲歌」習俗，一方面同樣體現了「興觀群怨」的禮樂特徵，另方面還蘊涵著「禮」、「野」互動的文化意義。推而廣之，面對二十一世紀全球一體化對地方性知識的衝擊和挑戰，通過對西南族群保存至今「集眾飲酒、歌今頌古」食俗的田野分析，再來重溫中國飲食文化「和而不同」的多元功能，我想當別有新意。

關鍵字

中國飲食；全球化；西南族群；吃相思；鼓藏節

並列摘要

This paper attempts to critically approach two features that should stand out in a discussion on Chinese food tradition: 1) multiple complex elements such as geopolitical and ethnic differences ; 2) dynamic interactions between cuisines and behaviors. The example that this essay will examine is the ritual of Chi Xiangsi (吃相思) in Dong village and the tradition of Miao's Chi Guzang (吃牯臟) in Southwest China. The poetics advocated by ancient Chinese Confucian ideology stresses four primary functions of art. namely xin, guan, qun , and yuan (與觀群怨). which means elevating, appreciating, uniting and venting . Another important view from the same source contends that ＂Ye＂(野, common people) is where we go and seek righteousness ＂Li＂ (禮, righteousness), which means that li comes from , exist in and can be reproduced in the people and folk cultures. This paper argues that the ＂drinking and singing＂ custom, as in the examples of the ritual of Chi Xiangshi and chi Guzang, embody both the four functions of art as Confucian thinking defines it and the interactions between Ye and Li. In the face of the aftermath and challenges that globalism has brought on local knowledge, a project on the custom of ＂drinking and singing together＂ of ethnic groups in Southwest China will shed light on the multicultural tradition of Chinese cuisine culture, which is nicely captured in the phrase ＂he er bu tong (和而不同, harmonious existence with differences).＂

並列關鍵字

Chinese food ； Ethnic group globalization

國際替代計量

飲酒與歌唱：西南山地族群的生態、食俗與文化──兼論「華夷聯繫」與「禮失求野」

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