引客注目的神饌與聖宴－對雲南大理白族祭祀飲食的考察

在白族諸多文化事象中，飲食是最能反映其民間信仰特點及文化變遷的元素之一，而白族祭祀系統中的神饌涉及當地人日常和慶典飲食構成的各個方面。本文以雲南大理地區的雙廊為考察範圍，對白族祭祀飲食活動中的神饌、獻祭與聖宴等內容進行深描。白族是一個以本主信仰為主，融合佛、道、儒的信仰多元化民族，食物的獻祭和相應的飲食禁忌是劃分各種神祇界限，保持諸神相安無事、共生共榮的一個極為重要的象徵符號。本文的田野點位於洱海東北岸，正值旅遊開發初級階段。迥異于中原漢族地區的祭祀宴飲活動，隨之成為吸引觀光客的「奇風異俗」。觀光旅遊的介入，使得食物的獻祭和作為「人神共享」的宴飲活動發生變遷，對當地人的群體心理和價值取向產生不同程度的影響。文章的最後，將祭祀中的飲食事象放置在傳統與現代的衝突中，試探討現代觀念和觀光旅遊影響下的白族宗教祭祀傳統的變遷問題。

關鍵字

白族；民間信仰；神饌；獻祭；聖宴；觀光；變遷

並列摘要

Food culture is an effective aspect to reflect popular religion and its change than many other aspects in the Bai's culture. As in their community, sacrifice and communion are always impressive and complicated. Based on the fieldwork in Shuanglang, town of Bai habitants in Dali, Yunnan Province of China, it gives a thick description of offerings and communion in their sacrifice related with food. Bai people have their popular religions which mostly worship their native god, and diversely mixed Buddhism, Daoism and Confucianism. By the study on their religious food and foodways, we can see how they deal with such complicated religion in a peaceful situation with simple but clear conception on food offerings. Meanwhile, this fieldwork site emerges some problem in its initial stage of tourism development. Like the rapid house building with rituals and celebration causes a big waste of food. Here we couldn't ignore that culture shock on food with impact between the local and tourists. The Bai villagers' mind and custom would be changed like a paradox, the time when they become rational on food, is the time their traditional sacrificial culture probably fall to pieces.

並列關鍵字

Bai people ； popular religion ； offerings ； sacrifice ； communion ； tourism ； change

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引客注目的神饌與聖宴－對雲南大理白族祭祀飲食的考察

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