承認政治的新頁：原住民餐廳中族裔飲食文化主體性的復歸與再現

A New Page for the Politics of Recognition: Labor Subjectivity and Tribal Cuisine Identity in Aboriginal Restaurants Running

朱柔若(Jou-Juo Chu)

《2013 中華飲食文化國際學術研討會論文集》 第13屆 (2013/10) Pp. 453-462

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.13.2013.13.26

摘要

In recent years, with the assistance of the ＂Multiple Employment Development Program＂ promoted by the Council of Labor Affairs together with the Employment Expansion program＂ initiated by the Council of Indigenous Peoples, the sprouting up of aboriginal restaurants specializing in aboriginal cuisine in the urban areas reveals three significant messages. First, the aboriginal restaurants place more emphasis on indigenous ingredients and their links with tribal communities. Second, many prominent aboriginal cuisines highlight their connections with tribal culinary culture and geographic contexts. Third, the increasing visibility of aboriginal restaurants in the urban areas also reflects the acceptance and inclusion of aboriginal culinary culture by the mainstrean Han people. Although aboriginal restaurants presents the symbolism of ＂pan-aboriginal food culture,＂ aboriginal people do not come from a homogenous group of rance and ethnicity. The cultural and culinary diversity between aboriginal tribes can be the source for conflict, or a factor for innovation. So far most studies place their focuses on aboriginal food, tourism, and culture from the perspective of cultural consumption, this article turns its head on the cultural production ad labor experiences in aboriginal employment. It examines in the times of pollitics of recognition, how the aboriginal people, as the cultural others, gain the realization of their cultural and ethnic subjectivity in the labor process of preparing aboriginal cuisine and running aboriginal restaurants.近年來在勞委會「多元就業開發方案」與原民會「擴大就業方案」的大力推動下，以原住民料理為主要特色的原住民餐廳在非原住民都會社區的出現，具有多項指標性的意義。第一，原住民餐廳多強調食材與原鄉的連結：其二，原住民料理多凸顯原住民飲食文化和地理環境的特殊連結；第三，部落之外原住民餐廳能見度的增加，也反映出在地主流社群對原住民飲食文化所傳遞族群標識與象徵符號的承認與接納。固然原住民餐廳展現的是「泛原住民族飲食文化的自然符碼」，但是原住民族並非一個同質的族類，內部的差異性實際隱藏著許多異質元素，既可能成為引爆認同緊張的線索，可能成為推動文化再生的因子。到目前為止，關於原住民飲食、觀光、文化的研究大多著眼於文化消費的論述，職是之故，除了為了有所區別起見，更為了擴大探索與對話的層面，本文刻意從文化生產與勞動的角度切入，檢視在高唱承認政治的時代裡，在保障原住民就業公民權的政策資源協助之下，不同族群的原住民如何透過生產原住民料理的勞動經驗中，實踐「文化他者」的主體性。

關鍵字

原住民餐廳 ； 勞動自主性 ； 文化主體性 ； 承認政治 ； 文化他者

並列摘要

In recent years, with the assistance of the ＂Multiple Employment Development Program＂ promoted by the Council of Labor Affairs together with the Employment Expansion program＂ initiated by the Council of Indigenous Peoples. the sprouting up of aboriginal restaurant. specializing in aboriginal cuisine in the urban areas reveals three significant messages. First, the aboriginal restaurants place more emphasis on indigenous ingredient s and their links with tribal communities. Second. many prominent aboriginal cuisines highlight their connection with tribal culinary culture and geographic contexts. Third, the increasing visibility of aboriginal restaurants in the urban areas also reflects the acceptance and inclusion of aboriginal culinary culture by the mainstrean Han people. Although aboriginal restaurants presents the. symbolism of ＂pan-aboriginal food culture.＂ aboriginal people do not come from a homogenous group of rance and ethnicity. The cultural and culinary diversity between aboriginal tribe can be the source for conflict. or a factor for innovation. So far most studies place their focuses on aboriginal food, tourism, and culture from the perspective of cultural consumption, this article turns its head on the cultural production ad labor experiences in aboriginal employment. It examines in the times of pollitics of recognition. how the aboriginal people. as the cultural others, gain the realization of their cultural and ethnic subjectivity in the labor process of preparing aboriginal cuisine and running aboriginal restaurants.

並列關鍵字

aboriginal restaurants ； labor autonomy ； cultural subjectivity ； politics of recognition ； cultural others