牛肉河粉：臺灣的、越南的、或我們共同的？

Beef Pho Identity: Taiwanese, Vietnamese, or Their Hybridity?

鄭智福(Chih-Fu Cheng) ； 蘇恒安(Heng-An Su)

《2013 中華飲食文化國際學術研討會論文集》 第13屆 (2013/10) Pp. 531-546

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.13.2013.13.31

摘要

牛肉河粉係源自中、法料理融合之平民美食。自其1920年出現於越南北部後，至令儼然已是越南美食的重要標記。在臺灣，隨90年代起跨國婚仲的流行，境外移入的越南配偶也有明顯增多趨勢，此趨勢也促成越南餐飲店的普遍設立；在越南餐飲店中，牛肉河粉幾均是每家店的必備菜色，足見其受臺灣大眾歡迎的程度。但以研究者在越南駐地八年經驗及所具備越南菜烹調背景來看，臺灣與越南的牛肉河粉，存在著明顯差異。就此，本研究使用Google網誌搜索得77篇食記網誌，並採用內容分析法，依餐廳群像、河粉變化、料理調適等項分析，就臺灣現有越南餐飲店之特色作一探討，再者，從河粉變化現象中，梳理其料理調適手法。研究結果顯示，臺灣現有越南餐飲店經營者背景有越南配偶、臺灣本地人及越南華僑等三類，經營特色依序為：料理在地化調適、創造「越南」風情、臺式越南料理的「原典」示範。三者的交流及擴展，也催生出我們共同的「臺式越南料理」。

關鍵字

越南餐廳 ； 牛肉河粉 ； 美食網誌 ； 內容分析

並列摘要

Beef Pho originated in the early 20th century in northern Vietnam and was influenced by both Chinese and French culinary traditions. Boosted by mass emigration due to lengthy war turmoil, pho has turned out to be globally recognized. Since 1990s, a growing number of Vietnamese females married Taiwanese and migrated to Taiwan, which has resulted in a widespread growth of Vietnamese restaurants. Beef pho, among those ethnic dishes offered, is no doubt a must that translates its Taiwanese taste-oriented popularity in the new host land. To investigate how beef pho is oriented and localized, 77 local food blogs demonstrating dining experiences in Vietnamese restaurants were analyzed by using content analysis. The study finds from the point of business strategies that firstly, what food provided by Vietnamese female migrant-run restaurant reflects an adaptation to the local taste. Secondly, local-run Vietnamese restaurants tend to adopt exotic and fashionable styles. Lastly, Vietnamese expatriate-run restaurants maintain the best ethnic and acceptable prototype.

並列關鍵字

Vietnamese ethnic restaurant ； beef pho ； food blog ； content analysis