十八世紀的復興：繪畫、時尚與戲劇

Revival of the Eighteenth-Century in Victorian England: Paintings, Fashion and Theatre

林芊宏(Chien-Hung Lin)

《屏東教育大學學報-人文社會類》 41期 (2013/09) Pp. 107-147

摘要

本篇文章討論英國維多利亞時期盛行十八世紀風潮，說明這股風潮不僅反映著1870年代人們緬懷過去的年代，而且形成十八世紀風味的時尚與戲劇潮流。受此影響，十八世紀題材的繪畫作品也因應產生，呈現出舊時代的服裝與設計風尚。朵莉．瓦登服飾是英國最流行的服飾之一，被譽為最道地的英式風格，為《胖趣》雜誌的藝術家所描寫。茶會服是在1870年代參考18世紀的寬禮服所設計而成的新式服裝，是在這波時尚潮流中最多人穿著的服裝樣式。《畫報雜誌》和《倫敦新聞畫報》含有當代十八世紀服飾與設計的插畫，足以證明這一段時期所盛行的十八世紀風潮。1870年代的中產階級可以接受上劇院看戲了，而18世紀復興戲劇以及其他以18世紀想像為題材的戲劇則在這波劇院的復興中扮演重要的角色，民眾不斷地上劇院看戲，在戲劇中看到18世紀的生活之後，也因此對舊時代更加充滿了熱情。改寫18世紀的戲劇作品中，謝里登的《造謠學堂》與威爾斯的《奧利維亞》是典範的作品。《奧利維亞》的角色刺激當代的繪畫與插畫作品的創作，讓人們回想美好的舊時光。除此以外，本文也將討論1870至1900年期間十八世紀的戲劇作品如何成為流行的戲劇製作，以及畫家、舞台總監、和創造新喬治王戲劇風潮的演員之間的交流活動。本篇文章旨在探討英國維多利亞時期於1870年代興起十八世紀的復興風潮，以及這股復古風潮如何反映在繪畫、時尚和戲劇的作品之中。

關鍵字

朵莉･瓦登服飾 ； 茶會服 ； 新喬治王戲劇

並列摘要

This paper presents later Victorian 18th-century revival movement and discusses how the movement reflected not only a growing nostalgia for a past epoch, but also the most fashionable trends in fashion and theatre during the 1870s. The paintings of 18th-century genre subjects, redolent with nostalgia for the previous century, tend to reflect earlier fashions in dresses and design. The Dolly Vardern, one of the most popular British dresses in the early 1870s, was hailed as a purely English style and was depicted by the artist for Punch. The tea gown, designed in the 1870s along the lines of the 18th-century sacque, was its most visible and widely-worn product. Popular magazines such as the Graphic and the Illustrated London News contained illustrations of 18th-century women's fashion during the 1870s. These illustrations demonstrate the vogue in the later Victorian era for earlier 18th-century style. In the 1870s theatre-going again became acceptable for the middle class. A revival of 18th-century plays and dramatized 18th-century fantasies played a large part in this resurgent interest in theatre. Constant theatre-going providing glimpses of 18th-century life contributed significantly to heightened popular excitement about this past epoch. Examples of 18th-century plays that enjoyed a revival during the late Victorian period are The Revivals and The School for Scandal by R.B Sheridan and Olivia by W.G.Will. Olivia confirmed fantasy objects evocative of the past and characters from this play are seen in many contemporary paintings and illustrations. In addition, these 18th-century revivals became popular theatrical productions and are discussed in terms of how contacts between painters, stage managers and actors eventually led to the creation of appealing Neo-Georgian plays. This paper will show how the most fashionable works in paintings, clothing, and theatre reflect the revival of interest in the 18th century during the 1870s of the Victorian period.,

並列關鍵字

The Dolly Vardern ； The Tea Gown ； Neo-Georgian Plays