臺東居民的飲食集體記憶與地方認同之初探

本研究主要目的在了解居民的飲食集體記憶與地方認同的關係，以具多元族群融合生活特性之臺東為研究地點，採質性研究方法，透過深度訪談進行資料蒐集，以滾雪球方式取樣，共計訪談對象10位。主要研究結果顯示，在飲食記憶部分，受訪者提到之臺東食物以米苔目最多，其次為海產、蝸牛料理等；食材以柴魚為最多，其次為旗魚、蝸牛及部落原住民作物；味型以本味、三杯及果香為多，調味料最多提到為九層塔，其次是鹽、醬油、刺蔥與馬告。飲食記憶與地方認同關係上，當地店家老味道連結居民生活日常記憶的地方情感；米苔目做為地方代表性之飲食，連結著在地風土、產業與族群形成的特色。旅外的臺東人透過熟悉的在地飲食經驗，來完成自身回到家鄉的歸屬感儀式，在地人的飲食地點與遊客的區隔亦是地方歸屬感的來源。

關鍵字

在地飲食；集體記憶；飲食文化；地方認同

並列摘要

The main purpose of this study is to understand the relationship between residents' food memory and place identity. Taitung, which has the characteristics of multi-ethnic integration, is selected as the study site. The data are collected from in-depth interview from ten interviewees with snowball sampling. Main results are as follows: in the collective memory of food, the representative food of Taitung mentioned by the interviewees is thick rice noodles, followed by seafood, snail dishes, etc. The representative ingredients are bonito, swordfish, snails and some traditional aboriginal crops; the taste type is mainly the original flavor, three - cups, and the fruity aroma. The seasoning is mentioned as basil at most, followed by salt, soy sauce, alianthus prickly ash and mountain pepper. In terms of the relationship between collective memory and place identity of food, the old taste of local stores connects the emotions of the residents' memories of daily life; thick rice noodles, as a representative local food, connects with the characteristics of local customs, industries and ethnic groups. Taitung people who travel abroad complete their own ritual of belonging to their hometown through their familiar local dining experience. The separation between the local people's dining location and the tourists is also the source of the sense of belonging for residents.

並列關鍵字

Local food ； Collective memory ； Food culture ； Place identity

國際替代計量

臺東居民的飲食集體記憶與地方認同之初探

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