阿美族料理的傳統與創意

Aboriginal Traditional and Creative Culinary Study of The Amis Ethnicity

黃東秋 ； 黃于 ； 黃羽

《華人文化研究》 3卷1期 (2015/06) Pp. 113-133

摘要

台灣是一個多語言文化族群的國家，因而從台灣住民各族的烹調法即可代表各不同族群獨特的文化。本文主要探究傳統阿美族族人如何運用其「母系社會（pasa-ina-ina-ay）」與「男性年齡層級組織（misa-sela-selal-ay）」兩項民族特色，展現其豐沛烹調技巧藝術。每當慶豐年的日子裡即可品嚐多元又多樣的好料理，這些傳統菜餚融合了祖先的智慧，更反映了就地取材原始野味豐味菜餚：野山芹、烤山豬肉、竹筒飯、炸山蘇和蔬菜以及家庭製小米酒都呈現了原鄉好料理，並彰顯原住民族族群的實質生活與文化內涵。本研究強調烹飪科學與親身體驗來品嚐族人創意豐味傳統菜餚的料理。採用質性個案研究方法論，企圖彰顯阿美族料理的傳統與創意之「巧」與「妙」。藉由質性研究方法的實踐並分析每一種所品嚐的菜餚，提供品嚐者體驗阿美族人在傳統菜餚文化的創意內涵與象徵意義。研究結果顯示出阿美族人的菜餚文化內涵與傳統文化相扣連，而呈現出三種飲食文化的特質：（一） 樂活養生（二）就地取材（三）發揮創意。

關鍵字

阿美族 ； 豐味 ； 創意 ； 原住民族傳統菜餚

並列摘要

Taiwanese aboriginal cuisine represents the culture of its people, for our country is multicultural, multiracial and multilingual. My study just reveals common cuisine of the Amis ethnicity. This ethnic group in Taiwan accounts for a wealth of culinary traditions, and it has been known that traditional food plays an important role at festival time. Their traditional food everywhere is a rich blend of ancestors' wisdom: the matrilineal society （pasa-ina-ina-ay） and their social organization through male work ranks （misa-sela-selal-ay）, reflecting local ethnic specific cuisines and produce from mountains, hills and sea. Mountain Parsley, roasted boar meat, bamboo rice dumpling, fried wild herbs and vegetables, as well as fine homebrewed millet liquor are all well-known aboriginal food, boasting a unique, rustic flavor and freshness with famous recipes. The research started with a literature review of the relevant culinary studies concerning several different ethnicities in Taiwan for the sake of providing a basis for analysis of the result. My study addresses both empirical and theoretical aspects of cooking science. This study employed a qualitative case study to gain an in-depth and holistic understanding of the Amis culinary traditions. By implementation of qualitative research methods to analyze the speciality of each dish I have tasted, I have figured out three characteristics of the Amis culinary traditions: preserving one's health, produce from local areas and cuisines full of creativity.

並列關鍵字

Amis ethnicity ； culinary ； creativity ； aboriginal cuisine