從束乳到挺胸─內衣穿著的社會學研究

A Sociological Analysis of Bra Wearing

覃思齊(Si-Chi Chin)

指導教授 ： 孫中興

國立臺灣大學/社會科學院/社會學研究所/碩士(2003年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU.2003.00006

摘要

本論文的目的，在了解在既有的文化結構下，穿著內衣對於女性的意義。文中從兩個研究方向著手：一是台灣女性內衣的歷史；二是女性穿著內衣心理與行為分析。在前者，將探討在歷史的過程中，遺留下什麼樣的文化結構；後者是女性穿著內衣心理與行為分析，觀察在既定的文化結構下，女性如何透過胸罩建構「身體」與「自我」，展現個體的能動性。關於歷史的研究，本論文先對歷史文獻進行內容分析，而後輔以訪談資料。再者，筆者透過焦點團體和深度訪談的方式，訪問了15位受訪者，以了解女性穿著胸罩的心理及行為。研究結果發現，隨著台灣資本主義的發展，胸罩的樣式愈趨多元。各種廣告和行銷手法，都把「穿胸罩」塑造成一種「高雅」、「正式」的禮貌。「不傅S點」的社會規則深植人心，讓女性把穿胸罩一事內化成「習慣」，認為穿胸罩是為了「美觀」，而未留意到其背後的社會建構過程。女性會根據自己定義的前台或後台，來決定自己穿著胸罩的行為，並在穿著的過程裡，找到自我轉變的契機。而穿著胸罩的行為，也隨著女性生命歷程的不同而有變化。

關鍵字

生命歷程 ； 自我意識 ； 身體 ； 胸罩 ； 文明化

並列摘要

The main idea of this research is to comprehend the meaning of bra wearing for women under the current cultural structure. The thesis consists of two parts. First, the way in which the modern bra developed in Taiwan. Second, to analyze women’s bra wearing behavior. In this way, we will see how women—the agency, acts under the historically cultural confinements—the structure. A combination of historical texts, interviews, and participant observations is used to understand the issues above. The study finds that the elaboration of diversity of modern bra was due to the development of Capitalism. Most of the advertisement marketed the bra wearing as a “decent” and “formal” manner. Women are always told to cover the breasts, especially the nipples. This social rule makes women consider the bra wearing as a “natural habit” for aesthetic reasons. However, most women ignore the social construction of this “habit”. The study also discovers that the bra wearing behavior can be partly explained by the stage theory. Different wearing patterns are found in both front stage and back stage. In fact, bra wearing can also endow women with a feeling of empowerment, and this wearing behavior changes according to different life courses.

並列關鍵字

body ； civilization ； bra ； life course ； self

參考文獻

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