點亮咖啡香：從認知語言學理解風味的跨感官表達

Brighten Up Your Coffee! Crossmodal Expressions of Flavor in Taiwan Mandarin within a Cognitive Linguistic Framework

張亦萱(Yi-Hsuan Chang)

指導教授 ： 江文瑜

國立臺灣大學/文學院/語言學研究所/碩士(2018年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU201803084

摘要

本篇研究從認知語言學的角度出發，探討中文母語人士對風味的感受中，如何以跨感官的方式呈現。風味是直接的嗅覺與味覺體驗，然也普遍認為過於主觀、空虛、抽象，難以具體形塑與表達的感官經驗。而在經由文獻回顧後，可察覺中文母語人士在表達風味體驗時，常藉由非味覺與嗅覺的修辭，作為風味的表徵。本論文以綜觀的角度探討 風味描述中以跨感官用詞描繪的隱喻結構與種類，也從語用的視角檢視跨感官隱喻修辭的目的，進而觀察評鑑者（即說話者）與傾聽者共同建構與共鳴的現象。
本研究以質化的方式分析及檢視語料。對於飲食的感官評析，不少飲食（如紅酒、橄欖油、巧克力、咖啡等等）在製造過程中，必須經由繁瑣的官能鑑定流程，依據統一的風味輪作為量表，始能具體評斷食品的風味優劣。其中，尤以咖啡的風味表達尚未有深入的探討與研究。而咖啡統一的制式化咖啡風味輪（由Specialty Coffee Association of America制定），並無法全然與中文對應，並讓中文使用者理解。因此，為了補足現有研究的不足，本論文從錄像搜集共十小時咖啡官能鑑定過程，並人工轉寫錄影中的風味描述與評析逾兩萬字，作為研究之語料基礎。並提出三個跨感官表達結構 (1) 跨感官隱喻（即共感隱喻Synesthetic Metaphor）(2) 跨感官轉喻（即共感轉喻Synesthetic Metonymy）(3) 跨感官明喻（即共感明喻Synesthetic Simile），以進一步解析風味的表達，與不同知覺間跨感官的聯繫，或與情感、記憶、文化間的微妙關係。研究結果發現，評鑑者運用跨感官隱喻將視覺、聽覺與觸覺中的描繪詞轉而形容風味，跨感官轉喻則為概念式隱喻多是上、少是下(More is up, less is down)環環相扣，而跨感官明喻則藉由意象基模(Image schema)與原形理論(Prototype theory)以期在風味描述中達到說服、感性鋪陳、或感同身受等溝通目的。
再者，本文也提出不同於以往研究中跨感官表現的方向性，並提出可能的修改方向。最後，本論文旨在彰顯跨感官結構在知覺感受表達中所扮演的重要角色，並提倡在語言學中建立知覺與言談(Perception and Discourse)為一研究領域。藉由提出風味表達中的共感隱喻、共感轉喻、及共感明喻的結構，本論文探究嗅覺、味覺與其他知覺如何互動、整合。透過多模態隱喻詮釋，解析語言之於知覺與文化的關聯性，希望能跳脫單純的語言結構與詞彙的脈絡，從認知語言學的角度，進一步釐清人類認知與感受的歷程。

關鍵字

跨感官表達 ； 風味 ； 共感隱喻 ； 共感轉喻 ； 共感明喻 ； 多模態隱喻 ； 言談分析 ； 知覺感受與語言 ； 咖啡杯測評鑑

並列摘要

This study aims to explore how flavor is conceptualized crossmodally in perceptions from the perspective of cognitive linguistics by analyzing data collected from coffee cupping events in Taiwan. Although the instinctive senses of smell, taste, and flavor are shared by all, the instrumental convergence of language seems impracticable for conveying such subjective, elusive, and abstract sensation. However, it is through language that our experience of flavor can be reconstructed, evaluated, and expressed (Dyer 2011). The gap between the inexpressible nature of the so-called primitive sensations (i.e., of smell and taste) and language is bridged through figurative expressions like metaphors and similes. Notwithstanding, rarely can we identify the Chinese counterparts of English flavor descriptors, nor is the language of savoring experiences in Chinese well studied.
Although coffee cupping involves abundant crossmodal expressions, previous studies have scarcely addressed coffee cupping; instead, wine tasting is a more common topic. To bridge this research gap, the current study conducts a corpus-based investigation on cupping data involving 27,043 words from a 10-hour recording. Based on previous flavor researches (e.g., Paradis, 2013), this study places emphasis on the following three aspects to investigate the highly context-dependent synesthetic expressions (i.e., expressions of crossmodal mappings) found during coffee cupping: crossmodal metaphor (i.e., synesthetic metaphor), crossmodal metonymy (i.e., synesthetic metonymy), and crossmodal simile (i.e., synesthetic simile). However, different from the hypotheses of previous researches, we propose a novel directionality of perceptual transfers in crossmodal interactions. In fact, there is no particular rule that crossmodality in linguistic expressions must obey or violate a certain directionality in terms of the perceptual and conceptual mechanisms within sensory expressions.
According to our findings, the crossmodal metaphors featuring interactions across touch, sight, taste, and smell are regarded as synesthetic metaphors; the crossmodal metonymy is in fact transferred from the general conceptual metaphor of MORE IS UP, LESS IS DOWN, and is referred as synesthetic metonymy; the crossmodal associating (i.e. synesthetic simile), analyzed through Image schema and Prototype theory, constructs two pathways of both human cognition and emotion in order to perceptually comprehend and emotionally participate flavor experiences. In sum, three complicated crossmodal formations (i.e., synesthetic metaphor, metonymy, and simile) have been established simply due to the human cognitive ability to demonstrate linguistic representation as a unity of senses (see Marks, 1978).
Further, by thoroughly analyzing synesthetic forms and functions, the present study aims to deepen an understanding of the emerging role of crossmodality in flavor expressions through the elaboration of the linguistic mechanisms of flavor expressions. By analyzing the flavor expressions that occur in coffee cupping, the study turns over a new leaf in research efforts on the relations among language, cognition, and perception.

並列關鍵字

crossmodal expression ； flavor ； synesthetic metaphor ； synesthetic metonymy ； synesthetic simile ； multimodal metaphor ； discourse analysis ； perception and language ； coffee cupping

參考文獻

References

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