台商成衣產業全球佈局戰略分析

台灣的成衣製造產業從1960年代至今，歷經了多重層次的轉變。本篇論文以旭榮集團為例，研究成衣製造從台灣生產製造的全盛時期，至後來因台灣薪資成本上漲提高而不得不走出海外，跨國投資，形成一個全球佈局、生產轉移的戰略。旭榮集團的成長模式恰好形成了一個絕佳的個案，讓我們可以分析在區位決定、產地考量的因素之下，台商成衣製造產業的投資決策是如何形成並確認。另外，本論文也將目前佔台商投資決策最重要的關鍵因素，各國關稅優惠條款的整理分析做一個詳盡的介紹。由於台商成衣製造產業多半鎖定歐美市場等大型國際品牌，故其投資生產地與出口國的關稅貿易條款對於是否享有成本優勢來說，至為關鍵。此外，各被投資地的狀態，從產業相關法令、基礎建設、產業工人的質與量，文化與相關產業配套，潛規則是否存在，也一併在此論文中提出並對各當紅熱門的成衣產地進行評估。在動態競爭的思維下，除了客觀的硬體條件外，本論文也同時需考慮同性質台商競爭對手的佈局現況與思維進行分析討論，同樣為台資的重要成衣產業競爭對手，他們的產地投資決策為何，進行分析比較。本論文最後提出價值網的概念，說明在現行的商業環境下，競爭與合作並不是絕對的存在，價值網的概念，說明了競合關係的運作模式。成衣製造業中最關鍵的問題即是產能的平衡，成衣工廠技術門檻不高，但是要確保訂單不穩時，工廠人工與機器可持續運轉，不因為淡季產能不滿而虧錢，也不因為旺季產能超載而出現產品品質不穩定的狀況。在業務及生產的產銷合作體系中，能讓工廠產達到接近滿載狀態的高度平衡，價值網概念中，『互補者』的存在恰好可以滿足此概念，利用『第三途徑』（也就是百分百自己生產和純外包外的第三條路）的方式，讓跨國成衣廠投資的效益極大化，面對更複雜的國際競爭，在價值網的概念中，我們將各加工、代工廠視為『互補者』，這些獨立性中小型的成衣代工廠由於缺乏直接與品牌商合作與談判的資源和能力，需仰賴大型的成衣製造商提供訂單讓這些小型的加工廠有訂單可以製造。對成衣製造商來說，由於所經營的客人數量眾多，加上每筆訂單依照其難易度考量與交期等等狀況，光靠自有的固定產能很難彈性的滿足客人所需要的產量需求。為求效益極大化，小型代工廠與大型成衣製造之間，合作形成一個共生關係，在彼此信賴與合作的原則下，成為一個具彈性的供應鍊共同體。而旭榮集團即以此概念，作為面對國際成衣製造產業競爭的重要戰略。

關鍵字

台商；成衣產業；跨國佈局；價值網分析；競合戰略

並列摘要

The Apparel Manufacturing industry in Taiwan has gone through many transformations since 1960. This thesis takes New Wide Group as an example to analyze the history of Apparel Manufacturing industry in Taiwan from the glorious days of Taiwan manufacturing to other countries investment because of the higher cost in Taiwan. All the factors lead to a strategic global setting of manufacturing for apparel manufacturers. The growing pattern of New Wide Group is a perfect case to demonstrate the decision making process of manufacturing locations following by the overall environmental and economic factors. On the other hand, this thesis also introduces the terms of tariff preference which plays a key role for investors to make investment. Since the target markets for apparel manufacturers in Taiwan are mainly the major brands in Europe and America, the terms of tariff between the locations of manufacturing and importing countries are the main factors to determine the cost advantages. In addition, the hottest production areas would be evaluated from laws for the industry, the fundamental infrastructure, the quality and quantity of labors to the cultures. In the dynamic investment environment, the thesis also includes the competitors’ strategies and global setting and analyzes what their investment decisions are. In the end of the thesis, the concept of Value Net is introduced to explain the coexistence of competition and collaboration. One of the most crucial factors in the apparel manufacturing is the balance of production capacity. While the threshold of garment factories is not high, the factories have to earn money during low seasons and do not sacrifice qualities during peak seasons. Through the good mechanism between Sales team and Production team, the production capacity could reach high performance. As the Complementors in the Value Net, it can maximize the investment return by taking advantage of the “third path,” the third way between 100% self- production and 100% outsourcing. In the complicated global environment, we regard the subcontractors, small or medium-sized factories, as Complementors, which relies heavily on apparel manufacturers to provide orders. For garment manufacturers, the demand from huge customer base is diversed with complex styles and delivery date. It is hard to meet all customer requirements merely depends on self-owned production. To maximize the profit, small garment subcontractors and big manufacturers collaborate and become a coopetition relationship based on trust. New Wide Group regards the “third path” as a vital strategy to compete in the global markets.

並列關鍵字

Taiwanese Company ； Apparel Manufacturing ； Global Setting ； Value Net ； Coopetition Strategy

參考文獻

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台商成衣產業全球佈局戰略分析

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