諸珍異饌，食醫調護──《飲膳正要》中的食治、食養與食禁

Dietary Treatment, Life-nourishing and Interdictions: A Case Study on the Yinshan Zhengyao (1330)

游祉瑜(Chih-Yu Yu)

指導教授 ： 張嘉鳳

國立臺灣大學/文學院/歷史學研究所/碩士(2017年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU201701868

摘要

本篇以元代《飲膳正要》為討論中心，分析此書的寫作背景、內容與意義，配合當時飲食文化、醫籍文獻、道家經典，探討書中的食治、食養與食禁等面向，分析在傳統中國醫學架構下，元代宮廷特殊的飲食文化及其食療觀。
　　《飲膳正要》一書延續「藥食同源」概念，卷一偏重飲食禁忌與補養；卷二記載各類飲食的食治方；卷三為食物本草，依續本草醫籍中對於動、植物性、味的分析研究。因此透過研究《飲膳正要》與其他唐以降相關食療的書籍，瞭解食療觀特色。又因書成之時正值蒙人統治中國，其固有文化與中土殊異，亦可看出在蒙古統治與海上商業繁盛下，雜揉西亞、北亞、東南亞與中原地區的飲食文化。《飲膳正要》涉及概念極廣，包含本草、食物宜忌、飲食方法、房中補益、道教養生及蒙古飲食文化內涵，值得逐一探討藉以瞭解當時元代宮廷食療概念如何在漢人醫學脈絡下傳承與演變。
　　近代學者多指稱此書具有首部營養學的崇高地位，然而成書之時流傳並不廣，後代醫書引用者也甚少。主要作者忽思慧曾任職飲膳太醫，從作者寫作的意向與書中的食療觀可知其讀者設定以皇帝、中宮后妃與負責皇室御膳的人為主，並非以普羅大眾為目的，其食療觀頗有侷限性與特殊性。這些特殊性如何表現在《飲膳正要》的食治、食養與食禁等面向上，此書的評論與定位又如何表現其不同的時代氛圍，是本文研究的核心目標。

關鍵字

飲膳太醫 ； 食養 ； 食治 ； 食禁 ； 補中益氣 ； 房中補益 ； 營養學

並列摘要

This thesis aims at exploring the Yinshan Zhengyao, a collection of therapeutic food recipes mainly compiled by Hu Sihui, a royal physician in the Yuan Dynasty.
Yinshan Zhengyao, written based on the “medicine food homology” (MFH) is divided into three chapters. Chapter One centers around the dietary interdictions and life-nourishing, Chapter Two is a collection of various recipes of therapeutic value, whilst Chapter Three is a materia dietatica, an extended study dedicated to the natures and flavors of different food ingredients. Therefore, Yinshan Zhengyao, of its valuable and diverse collection in dietary treatment, together with other related publications since Tang Dynasty, offers a precious gateway to the study of the Mongol ruling and cultural integration at that time. For it was a time when the Mongols, who then reigned over China, brought over their own culture that contradicted the indigenous and also when maritime economy and trade greatly prospered.
By scrutinizing the text and related writing background, alongside concomitant medical literature, Daoist classics and culinary culture of the time, I would like to delve into the dietary treatment, dietary life-nourishing and dietary interdictions in Yinshan Zhengyao. Many modern scholars regard Yinshan Zhengyao as the first publication on nutriology in Chinese history. It extensively involves therapeutic materia medica , alimentation, dietary taboos, reproductive health, Daoist health maintenance and even the Mongolian culinary culture, ranging all over—from the West, North, Southeast Asia to central plains of China. It has, however, not received deserved attention over history, nor has it been largely applied by medical experts after Hu, partially because Hu defined his target audience solely among the royal family members, rather than the general public.
In short, in this thesis, the author provides in-depth analyses of how Yinshan Zhengyao reflects the unique characteristics of imperial yet narrowcast food culture and treatments, i.e. the aforementioned dietary treatment, life-nourishing and interdictions formed under Yuan’s multicultural framework, and unfolds its veiled historical significance.

並列關鍵字

royal physician ； dietary treatment ； dietary life-nourishing and dietary interdictions ； invigorating spleen and replenishing qi ； reproductive health ； nutriology

參考文獻

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28.林富士，《中國中古時期的宗教與醫療》，臺北：三民書局，2008。

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