消費者如何消費頂級珠寶：珠寶、文化消費與消費意義之關連性研究

根據摩根史坦利(Morgan Stanley)公司發展全球分類標準GICS(Global Insustrial Classification Standard)提出，精品產業是包含1.時裝和配飾、2.葡萄酒和烈酒、3.手錶、4.香水和彩粧品、5.珠寶等五大類。由2008年全球精品產業類別的產值，與2008年中國精品產業類別的產值之比較。全球精品產業的批發或公司產值達到 2650 億美元，而中國大陸各類精品的預估數字約為150億美元，佔全球市場5.5％。可以確定的是2001~2007年間，許多圖騰性品牌（Iconic Brand）現有門市銷售量的成長率約30%，而且每年以20% 的數度擴充門市數量。整體而言，品牌的銷售銷售量成長率因此而增加50%。即便成長趨緩，到了2015年，中國大陸在精品市場仍佔有15%，如果加上兩岸三地，香港、澳門、和台灣，將佔全球營業額20~25%（Luxury Brand Management，2008）。珠寶類的未來產值尚有相當大的成長空間，而我們正歷經一場時代的轉變。本研究欲探討在文化的激盪因素下，消費者如何消費珠寶，以質性研究中一對一訪談的方式，深入探索珠寶的文化消費與消費意義。本研究定義珠寶的文化消費因素為：珠寶價值、色彩喜好意義、星座寶石、生日寶石、結婚週年紀念寶石，東方文化符號、西方設計風格等六項因素，並以東西文化融合的角度，列出八家頂級知名珠寶品牌的介紹及東方風情珠寶設計作品。提出，因東方風情受到珠寶精品產業的重視，而誕生的當代亞洲文化價值。藉由九位不同性別、年齡、產業別的珠寶消費者之訪談結果，彙整出現代珠寶消費意義。結合Holt消費理論中的四種消費類型與現代珠寶消費的混合型消費類型，探討出「文化消費」所創造的「珠寶消費意義」之間的關聯：消費者消費珠寶，已融入生活中既定印象的珠寶價值、色彩、線條、文化符號、設計風格所代表的意義後，再進行個人不同的詮釋和解讀，藉由珠寶的特殊性和設計風格，傳達心中的想法及價值觀。

關鍵字

珠寶；文化消費；符號消費；消費意義

並列摘要

According to Morgan Stanley’s GICS (Global Industrial Classification Standard), it proposes the luxury industry is included: 1. Fashion and accessories, 2. Wines and liquors, 3. Watches, 4. Fragrances and cosmetics, 5. Jewelries five categories. Since 2008 the output value of global luxury goods industry versus the output value of China's industrial, the wholesale global luxury goods industry or company output reached 265 billion U.S. dollars, and China estimated a figure of 15 billion U.S. dollars. It is 5.5% of the global market. It is certain that from 2001 to 2007, many of the Iconic Brands grew about 30%, and it has an annual growth rate of 20%. Thus, the brand's sales volume growth rate will increase by 50%, and even if development slows down by 2015, China is still in the luxury market share of 15%. Moreover, if one adds the three places crossed the Strait, Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan, it will have a global turnover of 20 ~ 25% (Luxury Brand Management, 2008). The future output value of jewelries has a considerable large room for growth, and we are experiencing an era of change. This study investigated the agitation in the cultural factors, and which is how the consumers consume jewelries by using the qualitative research method, one-on-one interviews, in-depth exploration of cultural consumption and the consumption practices of jewelries. The definition of cultural consumption factors for jewelries: jewelry values, significance of color preferences, constellation precious stones, birthday gems, wedding anniversary gems, eastern cultural symbols and western styles of jewelry design such as six factors, and east-west cultural integration in the perspective things and lists the top eight well-known jewelry brands’ presentations of oriental style jewelries’ designs and the birth of contemporary Asian cultural values. With nine different genders, ages and industry of jewelries of consumer interviews, it compiled the meaning of modern jewelry consumption. By using Holt consumption theory with four types of consumption practices and modern jewelry consumption practices mixed type of a "culture of consumption" created by the "jewelry consumption practices". The association between the consumer consume jewelry has been integrated into the established life impression of the jewelry values, colors, lines, cultural symbols and the meanings of the design, and then a different personal interpretation of design jewelries and styles to convey ideas and values.

並列關鍵字

jewelries ； cultural consumption ； symbol consumption ； consumption practices

參考文獻

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消費者如何消費頂級珠寶：珠寶、文化消費與消費意義之關連性研究

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