傳統民間節日飲食文化：祖母的煮食

Studies on Grandmother's Traditional Festival Cooking

許嘉利(Chia-Li Hsu)

指導教授 ： 阮昌銳

共同指導教授 ： 廖仁義

國立臺北藝術大學/文化資源學院學術論文/藝術與人文教育研究所/碩士(2011年)

https://doi.org/10.6835/TNUA.2011.00058

摘要

飲食即生命之源，文化的縮影。飲食文化（特別是民間傳統的飲食）是生活的一部份，也是藝術，屬於大眾的、親切的、感動人的藝術。而年復一年、歲時節日中的飲食，更富有常民們順應自然、尊天敬祖和家族團圓的深刻意義，為相對於「日常」的「特別」飲食，在「作」中有「息」的調和，並順利度過每個「關口」。因為從小與祖母（筆者的阿嬤）相處培養的情感，佩服她的智慧與人生態度；此外，筆者對於老一輩時代手藝的興趣——有「人」感覺的事物，那種祈求著闔家安康的虔敬心，與對食物充滿感恩之情的謙卑態度，都是筆者所希望學習的生命態度。而祖母更代表著她那個特殊年代人與文化之一部份，為大時代長河的一粒細沙。
本論文透過親身田野調查、訪談與參與觀察法的方式，結合文獻的對照，期盼藉此對祖母的歲時節日煮食有更進一步了解，並嘗試勾勒祖母時代飲食文化的輪廓。祖母的煮食，為人神共享的美食，先給神明、祖先吃，最後給家人享用；表現對神靈的崇敬與家人的關懷和愛。其煮食是她生命觀、智慧、哲學觀、信仰的一部分，而祖母透過真正身體的力行，顯示她的生活教育與生活美學觀。「生活即教育」，生活中的一點一滴、生命的歷程，是積累阿嬤生命的厚度與堅實根基之磐石。

關鍵字

祖母的煮食 ； 飲食文化 ； 歲時節日

並列摘要

Diet is both the source of the life and an epitome of the culture. Dietary culture, especially popular traditional dietary culture, is not only a part of life, but also an art that belong to the people. Year after year, dietary culture plays a significant role in our compliance with nature, and family reunions. In comparison with the ordinary daily diet, it is the special festival diet that symbolizes the passing of each significant day in the year. Due to the special bond I have had with my grandmother in my childhood, I’ve grown to appreciate her wisdom and her attitude towards life. The reverent heart that prays for the well-being of the family and the grateful sentiment towards food are all the attitudes toward life that I hope to learn. But she also represents a part of the people and culture of that special generation; a fine grain of sand in the perpetual flow of the great river of time immemorial.
This study was based on fieldworks conducted by myself. The methods included, interviews, participant observation combined with the comparison of reference documents. The aim of this study was to understand my grandmother's festival cooking, and attempt to portray the dietary culture in her generation. Her cooking was to be shared by the living and non-living as it was offered to the heavens first, ancestors second and then her family; this order expressed the respect for the heavens, ancestors and her love for her family. Her cooking was a part of her view of life, wisdom, philosophy and religion and by energetically putting it into practice, it revealed both her life's education and aesthetics views. It was these experiences that shaped the unshakeable foundation of her life.

並列關鍵字

dietary culture ； seasonal festivals

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