Gifts to Dye For: Cloth and Person Among Shidong Miao In Guizhou Province

染之成禮：貴州施洞苗族的布與人

何兆華(Ho, Zhaohua)

指導教授 ： 魏捷茲

國立清華大學/人文社會學院/人類學研究所/博士(2011年)

摘要

This thesis is an ethnographic study of cloth and clothing of the Shidong Miao society in Southeastern Guizhou Province. The work conducted and presented in this thesis seeks to paint a clear ethnographic picture of the society and culture of Shidong Miao through their cloth and clothing. It finds that the Shidong Miao have an intricate culture in both cosmology and practice but that the weight of tradition does not obscure their ability to perceive, respond to and make an accurate assessment of their own circumstances. Cloth, clothing and dressing up play a uniquely important role in cultures of Southwestern China in general.
The common theme throughout all these essays is the value of Shidong Miao cloth. This is explored through how they make cloth, how they use clothing, and how silver and clothes become performance in their social and cultural context. But within that, the research offers two broad accounts. One account is dealing with culture, and the other account regards the understanding of history in the Qing colonial period. Therefore, the account of the culture of cloth focuses on the discussions of materially, social relationships, objectification and personhood. Regarding history, this account stands on borderland to see how Shidong people face the impact of state power, and how they use their cloth to write history. Finally, I examine the issues of linguistics and art to understand how Shidong people face social changes and the reality of being in the world here and now.

關鍵字

施洞 ； 苗族 ； 布 ； 服飾 ； 人觀

並列摘要

本論文旨在透過對貴州省黔東南州台江縣施洞鎮苗族婦女染織做服以及相關禮俗民族誌的描寫，企圖探討長期以來人類學對苗族服飾與社會文化意義尚未釐清的議題。本論文發現施洞苗族婦女能夠透過製作布料、使用服飾，以及參與節慶及展演的過程，一方面展現社會的制約力量；一方面也顯示文化的能動性。本文以藝術為核心，探討宇宙觀與人觀、禮物與交換、以及歷史與社會變遷的三大議題。研究顯示施洞苗人透過陰陽的宇宙觀建立起性別與社會及文化的分類，在分類之中，透過親屬與婚姻的運作，作為結群以及區分他群的機制。布在禮物交換的過程中，充分顯示施洞苗人的性別區分以及社會關係的運作，禮物的債務關係，在此發揮運作。此外，透過刺繡與銀衣的展示，卻又是創造社會流動的方法。最後，施洞苗人與漢人長期互動的關係，影響其宇宙觀及社會再生產的機制，明顯見到施洞苗人一方面企圖在政治經濟上與「中國」連結，但卻又在社會與文化再生產上，要將中國帝國的影響摒棄在外。研究顯示苗人在文化或歷史的處境之下，不但十分現實，也十分活躍於參與新事物。面對文化的變遷，當地人並不將他視為一種文化流失，反而是重新用其文化思維，挪用或創造。布作為一種文化媒介，在施洞不但展現社會制約的力量，也充分顯現文化的能動性。透過刺繡與銀衣，施洞苗族婦女不但展現身而為人的價值，也顯露歷史與文化對於塑造人觀的重要影響。

並列關鍵字

Shidong ； Miao ； Cloth ； Person

參考文獻

Clifford, James 1988, The Predicament of Culture— Twentieth Century Ethnography, Literature, and Art. Harvard University Press, Cambridge.

Kuhn, Philip A. 1980, Rebellion and Its Enemies in Late Imperial China, Harvard University Press, Cambridge,.

Ho Zhaohua 何兆華2009, “Zhaochi zhaochuan de shijian: Guizhou Shidong miaoren lifa shijian zhong de wo qun jiangou” 找吃找穿的時間：貴州施洞苗人曆法實踐中的我群建構 (The Social Life of Time: Shidong Miao Calendar and Cultural Construction). In Journal of Chinese Ritual, Theatre and Folklore. 民俗曲藝Vol. 166 (2009.12), pp. 7-59.

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― ― 2000, Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross- Cultural Perspective, Berg, Oxford and New York.