台灣洋蔥的在地認同研究

台灣近年來受全球化衝擊影響，國外低價進口農產品雖已造成國內諸多農產品市場的萎縮，但卻也因此刺激地方以農業特產為主題的美食認同發展。台灣洋蔥就是屬此農業特產之一顯著例子。本研究以 Ian Cook (2004) 之農產社會生命的歷程觀察視野，分析台灣洋蔥的生產與消費歷程，及其如何被彰顯為具有教育、觀光及在地飲食特色的主題性產品。本研究藉行動者網絡理論來理解在地化的台灣洋蔥，如何被建構與再建構。觀察、訪談對象涵蓋屏東、彰化兩地洋蔥生產的主要行動者，包括蔥農、地方農會、生產合作社、批發行口、零售業者，及產地以外的一般消費者。研究結果顯示國人可分辨國產、進口洋蔥的烹調差異特性。進口洋蔥具外型大而完整、鱗片薄且光亮、肉質含水量低且具清脆、嗆辣口感，適合製作生菜沙拉、漢堡等西式料理。國產洋蔥雖不具進口洋蔥的工業化、標準化式生產特性，但此強調「台灣ㄟ洋蔥」的在地特產，其含水量高且具天然鮮甜風味的特質，恰適一般國人家庭普遍使用的爆香、燉煮方式。此外，由屏東產地所發起洋蔥的在地認同運動，諸如洋蔥文化展示館的常設展演與洋蔥美食觀光節慶等活動，更將台灣洋蔥由傳統烹調的對味使用，昇華、定調為屬精神層次之飲食文化產業遺產。台灣過去農業食物相關研究多半以技術研發、病蟲害預防為主，鮮少針對食材的社會生命歷程做進一步的研究。而且，特別在近年社會頻頻出現食物恐慌的當下，瞭解食物意義建構與認同的過程，更屬重要。本研究藉洋蔥生產到消費所呈現的社會生命過程，一方面希冀加強國人對農業生產的重視與珍惜，另一方面則是希望能夠喚起消費大眾對國內農產品的在地認同。

關鍵字

洋蔥；飲食文化；在地認同；行動者網絡理論

並列摘要

Influenced by recently growing globalization in Taiwan, cheap imported agricultural products have though edged out locally produced equivalents, this trend also contributes to the development of local food-themed identification movement. Onion can be named as a typical one. The study adopts Ian Cook’s (2004) investigative approach of agricultural products’ social life to examine production and consumption of local onions and to explore how they are crystallized into themed products, possessing educative, touristic and local-food functions. Action Network Theory (ANT) is next applied to interpret meaning construction and re-construction of localized Taiwan onions. Those interviewed and observed main actors are located in Ping-Tung and Chung-Hwa, including farmers, local farmer’s associations and production cooperatives, as well as wholesalers, retailers and customers located in elsewhere. The study shows Taiwan people are able to distinguish local-produced from imported onions. Imported onions are generally larger in size, rounded, shiny in appearance with thin husk, less juicy, crispy and spicy which are suitable for making western cuisines like salads and hamburgers. Although Taiwan onions are not produced under industrialization and standardization, yet they are produced locally and characteristic of juicy, natural and sweet flavor, which is good for frying and sauteing Taiwanese dishes, instead. Furthermore, campaigns aiming for localizing Taiwan onions arisen from Ping-Tung, such as cultural performances and festival activities by Onion Cultural Museum, have sublimated the traditional Taiwan onions into a spiritual realm priding themselves on food cultural heritages. Most of the related agricultural researches focus on the fields of technology development, plants diseases and insect pest prevention, but rarely put emphasis on social life and biographies of food. With growing food scares prevailing in these years, it appears vital to understand the processes of construction of food meaning and identification. Based on the aforementioned, the research takes this opportunity to trace social life and biographies of Taiwan onion from producers to customers, which is not only to enhance people to respect and appreciate local agricultural products, but also to recall public recognition of localized agricultural products.