時尚珠寶首飾設計「造形」研究

珠寶首飾設計是一種藝術與美的創作。珠寶商品是一項高附加價值的產業，商業越發達的國家，珠寶首飾設計就越蓬勃發展。一個好的珠寶首飾設計作品包含了許多要素，例如：外型美觀、價值突顯、佩帶舒適等等。其中，珠寶首飾的外型，是消費者接觸到產品的第一步，如果珠寶首飾的外型無法帶給消費者視覺上以及心理上的滿足與驚喜，消費者將會對它失去進一步擁有的慾望。成功的珠寶首飾造型必須要能反映產品的美觀、價值以及它背後的設計涵義，甚至是一個時代的文化。時尚珠寶首飾是時代文化的產物，是當代特有的風格反應。珠寶首飾設計創作是一種自我思想的實現，有必要從時尚珠寶首飾的歷史中吸取養份，從世界珠寶名店的造型中去探索深思，向大自然的造型學習。本論文研究探討的是「時尚珠寶首飾設計如何造形」。從蒐集書籍、雜誌中有關於時尚珠寶首飾的歷史文獻，整理、分析時尚珠寶首飾設計的時代潮流與風格，不斷求新求變的設計、新素材的開發與最新的製作技術。以設計造形的角度，探討世界珠寶名店的設計靈感來源、設計風格、設計理念、創新的鑲嵌技術等。再結合造形理論與方法，做有系統的分析，整理出珠寶首飾設計創意靈感來源與造形的方法，作為創作實驗的依據，提供珠寶首飾設計者參考，在設計造形上有所依循。設計創作者要不斷充實並增強內在思想，將其轉化為明晰的創作觀，以建立設計的靈魂。

關鍵字

珠寶設計；首飾設計

並列摘要

The design of jewelry involves the creation of art and beauty. The jewelry industry is a sector with high added value; the more economically and commercially advanced a country is, the more prosperous and thriving its jewelry design industry will be. A piece of well-designed jewelry is comprised of many elements, such as appealing appearance, emphasis of its worth and value, comfort of wearing etc. Amidst these factors, the appearance of a piece of jewelry is what consumers first respond to. If the appearance of a piece of jewelry fails to elicit a sense of satisfaction and surprise visually and psychologically from consumers, consumers will not feel an overwhelming desire to acquire it. In other words, a successful jewelry model must be able to reflect its visual appeal, value and the meanings of design behind it, which may even involve the culture of the age it belongs to. Fashionable jewelry is a product of an age and culture; it reflects the styles that were prominent in the age it belongs to. The design and creation of jewelry is also a realization of egoistic thoughts. Occasionally, it may become necessary to learn from the ideas of fashionable jewelry in the past; to engage in deeper thoughts from the modeling and design of jewelry in major boutique stores; to obtain inspiration from natural objects in the world we live in. The central topic of this thesis is “the process of shaping in fashionable jewelry design”, and relevant articles and literature gathered from books and magazines regarding the history of fashionable jewelry will be examined and organized to provide an analysis of the trends and styles of fashionable jewelry; the ever-changing and ever-developing of designs; the development of new materials and new casting techniques in the past. We will also be looking at the sources of design inspirations for major jewelry boutiques around the world along with their design styles, design concepts and innovative casting and molding techniques from a design/modeling perspective. Following that, we will combine shaping theories and methodologies to provide systematic analyses in order to categorize the sources of inspiration for the creation of jewelry design and modeling methods to establish a basis for creative experiments. This information can serve as a reference for jewelry designers by providing examples in jewelry design and modeling. It is imperative that designers and creators must constantly improve themselves and strengthen their internal thought process to be able to transform traces of ideas into lucid perspectives of creativity to breathe life into their designs.