時裝與舞台服裝之探討—以音樂劇『蛻變』之舞台服裝設計為例

A Study of Fashions and Theatrical Costumes－The Costume Design of Musical "No Day, But Today" As a Sample

陳婷婷

指導教授 ： 林淑真 ； 謝維合

國立臺灣師範大學/藝術學院/表演藝術研究所/碩士(2010年)

摘要

本研究欲從台灣服裝文化脈絡架構下，觀測服裝本體與原創理念的意涵，以音樂劇『蛻變』服裝設計製作之演練，運用時裝設計於舞台服裝，並在不同形態與設計過程，從服裝觀念轉述兩者之間相互關係與形式變化，架構概念，應用於設計活動中，服裝跨越領域所涵括的層面如形式、時態、空間、環境等因素著手探討，從不同的面向中，區別出服裝與舞台服裝之意涵及價值，以利用轉換於服裝設計作品中，並將其發想構思之基本概念整合，有效釐清兩者在不同形式運用下的演變，並且幫助解決設計過程中的衝突與盲點，主要目的在架構出時裝與舞台服裝的差異性，同時在服裝整體體系下，歸納出時裝與舞台服裝的設計模式。
透過實際操作與資料蒐集彙整，剖析創作過程之路徑，與影響設計運轉流程的因素，並藉由此次製作程序與自身經歷所引發之問題探討，從中探討時裝設計應用於舞台服裝上之效果，並將其歸納分析，經由創作歷程與實際製作經驗分享。研究者期望藉此模式提供服裝在不同領域的界定與分野，於服裝創作時的參考。
本研究以現代音樂劇『蛻變』演出之服裝設計作品為例，時裝文獻分析建構，使服裝設計能有效運用到舞台表演之中，創意集思啟發其視野不同地方，透過研究探討，讓服裝設計應用於舞台服裝得到詮釋與效應，並於形式變換形態的設計模式中，確立兩者關係，予以促使設計舞台服裝領域與知識之精進，讓作品更臻完美。

關鍵字

時裝 ； 舞台服裝 ； 服裝設計

並列摘要

Through the cultural structure of Taiwanese dress, this study follows the entity of dressing and the concept of creative ideas. Using the experience of designing the musical “No Day, But Today” costumes, this study constructs its concept using the relationship between the transmission of concepts and the changes of forms. In addition, this study investigates and gives the meanings and values of dress and costumes in the activities and the levels involved in the interdisciplinary fieds of dress such as patterns, time, space, environment, in order to apply and integrate the different areas of fashion design and the basic concept of the thinking patterns. By so doing, it may help distinguish the development of the two different forms and help solve the conflicts and remove blind points in the process of designing. The main purpose is to highlight the difference between fashions and costumes and summarize the design patterns of fashions and costumes.
Through practical application, gathering data, analyzing the process of creation and the factors affecting the process of design, this study uncovers the differences between fashions and costumes in the process of manufacturing and the problems stemming from personal experiences. Through the induction and analysis of the process of creation and the practical experiences of manufacturing, this study elaborates preliminary definitions of fashions and costumes. The researcher hopes to offer classification and demarcation in different areas using this pattern and provide references in the course of designing dress.
The research discovered that the range of dress patterns was wide, and that the characteristics of dress and the manufacturing skill are roughly the same, but the diversity of dress would produce the conflicts between different patterns of designing thinking. Such differentiation of appearances in design development results from different design pattems. Therefore, the research found that it was necessary in the field of dress to analyze and construct different forms and the demarcation of categories, in order to make fashion design effectively use creative thinking and inspire the difference of visions. The study established the meanings of the discourse of dresses and costumes and confirm the relationship between them in the process of transforming the designing patterns, in the hope of making progress in the knowledge of the arias design and making products perfect.

並列關鍵字

Fashion ； Costume ； Fashion Design

參考文獻

王潤婷（95）。〈從西方音樂劇的歷史與特質看台灣音樂劇的發展〉《藝術學報》，第78期，165-181。

范朝煒（2006）。《《好久不見》的技術製作管理》，國立台灣大學戲劇學系碩士論文。

張蘊之（2008）。《台北「小劇場」發展脈絡研究》國立台北藝術大學戲劇學院

趙婉珍（2008）。《全球化下日本企業之品牌策略: 以流行業界為中心= グロー

Kondo, Dorinne K. (1997), About face : performing race in fashion and theater / Dorinne Kondo , New York : Routledge.