- 學位論文
鳳鳥紋飾應用於金工飾品之創作
Adopting the classic phoenix icon in the creation of esthetic, ornamental metalsmithing
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摘要
中文摘要 愛美是人的天性。自有人類以來,就懂得利用外物來裝飾自己。隨著經濟起飛,國民所得的提高,使得非民生必需品的珠寶飾品,也從傳統保值的觀念,慢慢提昇到要求高品質、造型優美、合理的售價,這不僅是消費意識的抬頭,也是珠寶飾品設計師的一種挑戰。環顧國內珠寶飾品式樣,無論是在飾金或K金市場,不外乎兩種,一是沿襲傳統,樣式多以傳統的金銀元寶、慶祝結婚生子等傳統祝賀式樣;另一則是來自西方設計模式中的點、線、面為主的設計,式樣較為現代感,但卻看不到本國文化特色,是相當可惜的。其實傳統並不是落伍的等號,如何把本國傳統文化中的精華粹取出來,是身為珠寶設計師責無旁貸的責任。在本研究中,嘗試以富有中國色彩的文化動物「鳳鳥」為主要的設計源頭,轉換注入金工飾品的可能性。所採行的方法有三,文件分析法、比較研究法、實驗創作法等。在文獻的探討、分析與比較後,找出鳳鳥的造型特徵與色彩,與鳳鳥更深層的人文涵義,以當作研究者設計思考與想像的養份;並且探討金工飾品製作的方式,在評估後,找出本研究最適合的製作方式,即金屬打板法, 在創作實驗的過程??,以手工打造、少量生產為原則,強調珠寶飾品的精緻度與個性化,製作出具有本國文化特色的金工飾品。同時,亦將設計過程、製造流程,以圖案及照片的方式呈現出來,以供愛好珠寶飾品者的參考,亦希望在本研究後,能有更多後繼者能經驗分享,共同投入珠寶飾品設計這園地。
並列摘要
Adopting the classic phoenix icon in the creation of esthetic, ornamental metal-smithing Abstract The pursuit of lasting beauty has not only been ingrained in all of us but has been omnipresent throughout the history of mankind. The changing consumption pattern arisen from a surge to real disposable income has revolutionized how one views precious metal once reserved for value preservation into a practical art of quality, high style at affordable cost, an emerging trend that not only signals an era of consumerism but a lucrative niche for the precious metal trade. A quickly glimpse of the local gold retail industry, be it gold alloy or 24 karat gold, reveals that the market is predominantly led by two schools of goods - the traditional kind which often takes to the shape of gold bullion, tablets and the like for festivity celebration of child birth, wedding and so forth, and the other of more modern Western taste deploying clean-cut lines, planes and curves, reflecting a more modern look but somehow lacks the heritage link. Nevertheless, tradition does not necessarily equate to outdated taste but rather an opportunity for smart jewelry designers to reval the traditional into something practical, useful and up-to-date. This has inspired to the study to examine the feasibility of reintroducing phoenix, an iconic symbol to the Chinese culture, as a design inspiration in metal-smithing. A three-part study approach has been sought to conduct the study, namely an archival research, comparative analysis and hands-on creation. Archival study, analysis comparison have been utilized to identify the characteristics and coloration in phoenix styling, and for instilling a significant humanistic trait of the icon, as the premise for fueling the research’s imagination and thinking process and as a direction in the actual gold metalwork creation. A series of stringent assessment has led to the identification of metal template making as an optimal gold-smithing approach, with handcrafted workmanship in limited edition selected as the process of experimentation, emphasizing individualism and refinement of the end piece created to reflect a touch of tradition in fine gold jewelry. A documentary excerpting highlights of the design and manufacturing processes via graphic and photographic exhibits has been compiled as references to share with the like-mined, in anticipation that the study may inspire newcomers to continue exploring the ever-fascinating domain of ornamental jewelry design.
參考文獻
1.王冠棋撰，立體造形透過電腦合成在視覺設計應用之研究，民國八十九年七月
參考書籍
中文部分
1. C. Vernon Siegner 原著 劉克立翻譯 民國六十年十二月初版 金屬工藝。台北：海國書局
2. 張志純譯 民國六十九年元月三十日初版 新潮派珠寶製作法。台北：徐氏基金會