從廚師經驗探索台菜道地性之建構

所有的文獻都指出「台菜」是臺灣經歷三百年政權更迭、異族文化的交融下，發展而成具有道地性 (authenticity) 的臺灣傳統飲食文化，但是僅有少數文獻討論過台菜的道地性。廚師是台菜的「做」者，他們持續且長期生活在這個地方，熟諳台菜的文化，因此他們應是最有能力和洞見來論述台菜道地性的主體，但是這樣的文獻也付之闕如。故本研究的目的是對廚師的經驗敘說進行台菜道地性的詮釋，並建構出台菜的道地性。本研究運用敘說探究法，以立意取樣對7位擁有30年以上台菜廚藝經驗之廚師進行半結構式訪談，使用主題分析法進行敘說文本的分析。最後得出三個面向及十個分析主題，在「台菜道地性的根基」面向中包含烹飪場域的結構化、烹飪慣習的鞏固、關係資本；在「台菜道地性的核心」面向中包含台菜原料的物性、台菜味道的關鍵、台菜的外在美感；在「台菜道地性的展現」面向中包含概念與獨特、經典菜餚、台菜的變化、創新的應用。經由分析與詮釋，本研究認為「台菜的道地性」的概念是指由對臺灣有深度的地方體認且有長年台菜烹飪工藝的演繹者，經歷過台菜烹飪場域的被結構化與再結構化和烹飪慣習的鞏固，擁有關係資本的底蘊基礎，憑藉對原料物性的理解、關鍵味道與外在美感的掌握，也能夠展現台菜的概念與獨特、經典、變化、和創新的脈絡下所做出的臺灣飲食。最後本研究建議保存並重視擁有豐厚台菜閱歷的師傅是讓台菜文化存續的首要之務。

關鍵字

台菜；道地性；飲食文化；敘事探究

並列摘要

Almost all studies pointed out that "Tai-tsai", referred to the authentic Taiwanese food culture, was a fusion of multi-ethnic cuisines derived from and developed in Taiwan’s 300-year history. Very few studies discussed the authenticity of Tai-tsai from chefs’ viewpoints. The local chefs are the "makers" of Tai-tsai. They have rich experiences and profound insights to discuss the authenticity of Tai-tsai because they have been living in Taiwan and cooking Tai-tsai for decades. Therefore, applying the narrative inquiry, this study aimed to interpret the chefs’ experiences and construct authenticity of Tai-tsai. The author conducted semi-structured interviews with 7 purposefully sampled chefs who have been cooking Tai-tsai for more than 30 years. Thematic analysis method was employed to analyze the narrated text. The authenticity of Tai-tsai was underpinned by a total of 3 domains and 10 topics. The first domain was the “foundation of authenticity” of Tai-tsai, including the structurization in the culinary field, the consolidation of culinary habitus and the establishment of the relationship capital. Secondly, the “core of authenticity” of Tai-tsai included the materiality of ingredients, critical flavorization, and aesthetic of appearance. The last domain was the “presentation of authenticity” of Tai-tsai which encompassed Tai-tsai’s concept and uniqueness, classic dishes, and modification and innovation. The author believed that experienced Tai-tsai chefs were critical to the authenticity. The performance of Tai-tsai in today’s society depended on their comprehensions of scientific materiality, persistence on holding the tradition of flavor and appearance, which were all rooted in their structured disposition and habitus-governed thoughts and actions. It is imperative that experienced Tai-tsai chefs should be highly respected and documented in terms of preserving and continuing the culinary culture of Tai-tsai.