華人美食的離散與融合—文學影像與跨文化研究

食物不簡單，餐盤上的菜色往往濃縮了當地的人文習俗和地理背景，一道料理背後蘊含著該國家的特色和飲食習慣，全球化之下，人與人和族群的跨區移動，連帶也帶著代表的飲食無國界，進而將料理運送到全世界的餐桌上，形成了串起人與人之間最無隔閡的共通語言，食物跟著人們移動的同時，尋找其中的文化認同的軌跡。食物是鄉愁，串起移民者與家鄉之間的美好回憶，也成為了移民者加入新的環境後，與不同民族之間最主要且直接交流的媒介和方法，到了一個新環境，處理食材的方式和料理方式大不相同，跨出國界之後，一道料理能否保留他的外型與口味？為何改變？如何改變？改變了多少？本文中也將探討料理變形後的菜色，再流傳回到原發明地後，原居住地的人們能否再度接納？這道變形後的「家鄉菜」如何打破隔閡與障礙，拉近與原居住地者之間的距離？吃什麼？怎麼吃？和誰吃？在哪裡吃？往古今來看似理所當然的飲食過程，除了維持生存的功能，也投射出一個族群的背後的多元文化與傳承、反映出階級的象徵，什麼樣的菜代表著「高尚」的文化，什麼族群的餐點卻往往被貼上「呷粗飽」的標籤？歷史上，在不同的族群之間，會出現的歧視情形，每項食物背後同樣也隱藏著歧視現象。華人飲食在移動後，與新文化融合產生變形，經過長時間的流變與文化傳承後，哪一家或哪一派系才能代表正統？何謂正宗菜？成為不少華人移民者的迷思，本文便透過文本與影像敘述，分析料理在「離鄉背井」後，隨著時間的流逝，面臨適應、衝突後，產生的融合變形與離散過程，也透過食物窺見近代華人移民的辛酸和堅韌。

關鍵字

華人飲食文化；移民與認同；離散；融合與變形；正宗料理；家鄉菜

並列摘要

Cuisines are not simple. Local cultural customs and geographic backgrounds are often condensed into dishes on plates. The country’s characteristics and dining habits are hiding behind dishes. Under the condition of globalization, the cross-regional movement of people and ethnic groups makes food borderless, bringing cuisines onto dining table all over the world. It has formed a common language that links people with the least barriers. While food moves with people, we are able to look for the trajectory of cultural identity in it. Food is nostalgia. It brings together the good memories between immigrants and their hometown. It has also become the most important and direct communication media and tools for immigrants with different ethnic groups. After moving to a new environment, the way of cooking and the way handling ingredients are different than before. While stepping out the borders, can a dish retain its appearance and taste? Why change? How to change? How much has changed? In this thesis, we will also discuss the deformed cuisine. When they are spread back to the place they originally invented, can the people in the original place accept them again? How do the deformed “hometown dishes” break the barriers and obstacles, narrowing the distance between the cuisines and original residents? What to eat? How to eat? Whom to eat with? Where to eat? Since the ancient times, the natural eating processes are usually taken for granted. However, they not only maintain the function of survival but also project out the multi-culture and inheritance behind ethnic groups, reflecting the symbol of class differentiation. What kind of cuisines represent a “noble” culture? And what ethnic groups’ dishes are often labeled as “satiate?” Historically, discriminations had occurred between different ethnic groups. Discriminations have also hidden behind every food. Sinophone cuisines are deformed and merged with new culture while moving. After a long period of change and cultural inheritance, which one or which faction can represent orthodoxy? What are authentic cuisines have become myths of Chinese immigrants. Through researching literary and video narratives, this thesis analyzed the process of fusion, deformation and dispersion that occurred when sinophone cuisines are away from their hometown after facing adaption and conflict, catching a glimpse of bitterness and tenacity of Chinese immigrants through food.