法國米其林指南的全球在地化與其臺灣在地化策略分析

米其林指南是法國飲食文化的重要代表產物，為世界最具權威的餐廳評鑑機構之一。受台灣觀光局熱烈邀請，米其林指南於 2018 年將臺北納入海外評鑑城市，於 2020 年增加臺中市場。如麥當勞、星巴克等知名跨國餐飲品牌，企業走向全球化的關鍵在於落實「在地化」，但米其林指南與餐飲品牌不同之處在於，它販售的並非料理實體，是以獨到的評鑑品味與評鑑結果擄獲各國美食家、主廚、觀光客的信賴與推崇。換言之，米其林指南的核心價值是一套對美食品評及餐廳評鑑的文化系統。於此，本文以 2018 年至 2020 年間，米其林指南臺灣版為主要研究範圍，從紙本指南、數位傳播媒體以及公關與活動等三個分析層面，以較為宏觀的角度探討法國米其林指南如何在跨文化的脈絡下執行在地化的策略。

關鍵字

法國飲食文化；米其林指南；臺灣在地化策略；國際美食評鑑

並列摘要

The Michelin Guide is a representative product of French culinary culture and one of the world's most authoritative restaurant ratings. The Michelin Guide has been invited by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau to include Taipei as one of the cities to be rated overseas in 2018, and to add the Taichung market in 2020. The Michelin Guide is different from other food and beverage brands, because it does not sell the actual cuisine, but rather its unique tastes and ratings are trusted and respected by gourmets, chefs, and tourists from all over the world. In other words, the core value of the Michelin Guide is a cultural system of food and restaurant evaluation. Therefore, this paper takes the Michelin Guide Taiwan from 2018 to 2020 as the main scope of study, and examines how the Michelin Guide implements localization strategies in a cross-cultural context from three levels of analysis: the paper guide, digital media, as well as public relations and events. This study finds that the Michelin Guide has created a Community of Taste with the Michelin Guide at its core through the collaboration of the physical and online media, the government and the industry, and the cooperation of Taiwanese artists and French chefs, which has led to the fermentation of media opinion and helped the Michelin Guide to build a strong food discourse in Taiwan.