花與清代飲食之研究

Flowers and cuisine of Qing Dynasty

許馨文(Sin-wen Hsu)

指導教授 ： 王成勉

國立中央大學/文學院/歷史研究所/碩士(2011年)

摘要

花卉，以其賞心悅目、繽紛秀麗的外表，久為自然界中主要觀賞植物之一。自古以來，騷人墨客們便以大量的文學和藝術作品來表達對花卉風采的崇拜和欣賞；也將花卉各式各樣的生長方式、外型特色等，與品德發展相互聯繫，形成了古代文人待人處世、出處進退的規範標準及理想目標。然而，也由於過去持有的刻板印象，使得花卉的觀賞價值掩蓋了其實用價值，學術研究中鮮少關注於花卉在日常器用和活動中的表現。
本研究透過了史料的重建和分析，認為過去的觀念應該重新修正。在早期中國歷史中，人們對於花卉的認識，最初來自於實用價值中的「飲食功能」，並有著淵遠流長的發展歷程。從祭獻神靈的祭品，及帝王賞賜功臣的禮物，至宋代時成為常見的料理形式。到了清代時，以花卉製成的料理數量、品質、種類都已達到成熟完備的境界。而這樣的成果，是奠基於歷代以來的發展，再加上當時社會愛花風氣的鼓舞，以及當代文人的提倡，才得以形成燦爛的清代花卉飲食文化。
此外，中國飲食對於食材挑選、烹飪技術、飲食情境的重視，也表現在花卉飲食中。從製備過程和原則中，可以發現花卉不同於其他食材之處，有著獨樹一格的烹調方式；亦結合了傳統醫學中的食補概念，成為清代時非常重要的養生料理。此外，最重要的是花卉飲食中生活情趣和審美觀念的展現，在清代不同群體和階層間呈現了多樣化的風貌，也讓清代花卉飲食成為中國飲食史中，別具特色的一門學問。

關鍵字

節慶 ； 養生 ； 飲食 ； 花卉 ； 清代

並列摘要

Flower, with its pleasant, colorful and beautiful appearance, has long been the major ornamental plants of nature. Since ancient times, men of letters expressed their worship and appreciation of flowers by a large amount of literary and artistic works; and also interconnected various growth patterns, shapes and characteristics of flowers, moral development together, that formed normative standards of getting along with people and dealing with things and ideal goal of ancient literati. However, it is also because of stereotypes of the past, ornamental value of flowers has covered their practical value, academic researches rarely focus on performance in daily features and activities of flowers.
In this study, concept of the past is considered to be revised through a historical reconstruction and analysis. In the early history of China, people''s understanding of flowers was originally from the practical value "cuisine" and with a long line of development. It went from sacrificial offering to the gods, and gift to contributor rewarded by the imperial, to a common form of cooking of Song Dynasty. To the Qing Dynasty, with flowers made quantity, quality, species of food made of flowers had reached a level of complete maturity. And such results were founded on the development of ages, coupled with inspiration of social atmosphere of flower loving, and promotion of contemporary literati, and also because of this the brilliant flower food culture of Qing Dynasty was able to formed.
In addition, the great importance on selection of ingredients, cooking skills in Chinese food culture is also shown in flower cuisine. From the preparation process and principles, it can be found the difference of flower from the other ingredients that it has unique way of cooking; and it also incorporates the tonic concept of traditional medicine, which makes it a very important health food of Qing Dynasty. In addition, the most important thing is the expression of taste of life and aesthetic of flower cuisine, which showed various styles between different groups and social classes in the Qing and also made flower cuisine culture of Qing Dynasty a unique knowledge in history of Chinese cuisine.

並列關鍵字

festivals ； cuisine ； flowers ； Qing Dynasty ； health

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