依據人體計測值探討服裝原型版型之研究

在台灣的服裝製作教育中，最常被使用的製衣原型種類屬於日本新文化是原型最為廣泛，但由於人體型態會受到種族、生活習慣等因素影響而不同，因此學者柯氏於2008年發表屬於台灣成年女子製衣用原型與製圖方法，是台灣成年女子以實際人體計測採吋取得人體體表尺寸及及以人體外表石膏取模法取得台灣成年女子體表型態數據原型；而柯氏為了讓各種不同體型能夠取得合身原型，並於2011年韓國發表，透過實際10個人體體表採吋項目，直接以柯氏原型進行數據移動式修改，便能取得各種體型的合身原型版。而本研究目的以台灣人體計測值求取日本新文化式與柯氏兩種服裝原型版間合適度差異關係；本研究量測106位台灣成年女子，並繪製新文化式原型與柯氏原型進行量測採吋，將取得原型紙樣之數據透過統計與線性迴歸探討兩者差異，提出人體計測值與各原型項目間關係及差異；結果得知日本新文化式原型與柯氏原型構成方式不同，柯氏原型之構成模式合身度良好，適合台灣人做合身原型版，由兩種原型版比較之結果可以作為後人選擇適用的版型參考依據，益於後人服裝原型製作的參考，研究取得之人體計測值與原型數據可供未來服裝發展數據化之相關應用。

關鍵字

人體計測值；原型構成差異；日本新文化式原型；柯氏原型

並列摘要

It is known that body shape may be affected by ethnicity, lifestyle and other factors, so it is necessary to understand the relationship between body meas-urements and the prototypes. This study aims to investigate the differ-ence between the New Culture style prototype and Ko's prototype. There were 106 adult of Taiwanese women measured, and individual Ko's prototype plates and New Culture style prototype plates were drawn to obtain the dimen-sions of the proto-type paper samples. The results show that the Japanese cul-tural prototype and the Ko’s prototype are different in composition, but Ko's prototype has a good fit and is suitable for Taiwanese people as a basis for a fitted prototype. Therefore, although it is easy to obtain a good fit when using the Ko's proto-type, it is possible to take into account factors such as height and BP length, and the size of the chest can be measured during anthropomet-ric testing as a basis for correction.