時尚美學儼然是當代流行文化的縮影,百貨公司早已被視為當代消費文化面向之一,因此透過中興百貨的廣告能夠反映出當代流行文化的樣貌,藉由資料蒐集整理得知中興百貨商品定位訴求高收入、高教育水準的消費眾,透過女性主義的性別意識形態與時尚美學廣告符碼經營其廣告策略,以之塑造風格化的影像使其呈現時尚流行的風貌與多元的文化意義。 本論文的研究目的主要有三項:(1)蒐集中興百貨相關文獻,進而整理歸納其歷史脈絡與經營策略。(2)透過性別意識形態與時尚美學的理論,剖析中興百貨如何將之做為策略運用。(3)詮釋中興百貨以性別意識形態與時尚美學的廣告符碼之成功廣告策略因素與參考原則。筆者蒐集中興百貨1988-2007年獲獎的廣告文本,包含平面廣告與電視廣告,依據其內容將分為四大類:促銷類、節慶類、季節類以及社會議題類。進一步選取運用性別意識形態與時尚美學廣告符碼的廣告文本作為本研究的分析樣本,因此以《胖女人篇》與《書店篇》為電視廣告樣本,而平面廣告則是以《身材弱勢團體篇》、《小紅帽篇》與《盧燕篇》為主要樣本。本研究運用文本分析法與符號學的三層次,並且將廣告樣本分為技術面與符號面詮釋其廣告文本。 筆者以性別意識形態與時尚美學的廣告符碼剖析其廣告創意策略與視覺表現,發現:1. 性別意識形態:廣告文本顛覆傳統父權社會之刻板形象:(1) 以身材弱勢團體代表的豐腴女性,提出「多元的身體美學」翻轉男性目光規範理想女性的「標準三圍」。 (2) 提出「女性自覺」的小紅帽顛覆「女性為弱勢角色」。 (3) 以「內外兼具」的女性翻轉「女子無才便是德」。2. 時尚美學:廣告文本中的人物、背景與裝飾以中國民俗風和時尚經典元素呈現其流行風貌,而美學素養的部分則是由世界名畫描繪廣告影片中的視覺構圖,有別於當時的廣告。
The fashion aesthetics is a miniature of contemporary popular culture. Department store is one of places people can observe. Every department store use advertisement to show its own style. Take Sunrise Department Store as example, they focus on higher income and more cultivated consumers and make many advertisements with feminism ideology and fashion aesthetics. The purpose of this thesis is to 1) figure out management strategy of Sunrise Department Store from related documents, 2) discuss how Sunrise Department Store use gender ideology and fashion aesthetics to promote, 3) state the factor and principle Sunrise Department Store make people impressive. From awarded printed advertisement and CF of Sunrise Department Store during 1998~2007, I classify as four types: promotion, festival, season, social issue and take some particular texts which use advertising codes for gender ideology and fashion aesthetics as sample. “Big Ladies” and “The Bookstore” are sample for CF and “Natural Beauty”, “Little Red Riding Hood”, and “Lu-yen” are for printed advertisement. Last I analysis these samples in technical and semiotic phase especially using three layers of semiotics – connotation, denotation, and cultural symbols.