永久染髮的配方開發及分析方法建立

The Development of Formula and Analytical Method for Permanent Hair Dye

黃婉雯(Wan-Wen Huang)

指導教授 ： 許世興

朝陽科技大學/理工學院/應用化學系/碩士(2013年)

摘要

由於染髮劑常用的中間體PPD(p-phenylenediamine)，是目前公認有刺激致癌爭議的成份，而PAP(p-Aminophenol)、TDS(Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate)是現今市售染髮劑中常用來取代PPD成份，因此本實驗將PAP、TDS及2M5AP(2-Methyl-5-amino phenol)這三種原料做為本實驗自配染髮劑中的主要研究成份，利用本實驗開發的HPLC方法進行定量及安定試驗。
本研究所建立的HPLC分析方法，其管柱為HYPERSIL ODS-C18（5μm，4.6 mm × 250 mm），移動相組成為乙腈：三乙胺（以磷酸調pH7.5）=10：90，流速為1.0 ml∕min，注入量為10μL，波長為 245 nm偵測PPD(
pphenylenediamine)、PAP(p-aminophenol)、TDS(Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate)、MAP(m-aminophenol)、OAP(o-aminophenol)及2M5AP(2-Methyl-5-amino phenol)六個成份而波長272 nm偵測RL(resorcinol) 一個成份，可在20分鐘內可同時分析七個常見染髮劑成份。
在安定性試驗結果中，測試在自製的永久性氧化型染髮劑其中含6.5%抗氧化劑Na2SO3，在25℃室溫條件下放置一個月， PAP、TDS及2M5AP含量分別為83.7%、94.2%及73.7%。
在分析方法確效的虐待試驗中，只有加酸、加H2O2或照射UV對主成份PAP、TDS及2M5AP不會造成太大的影響，含量都有88.5%以上；而加鹼下對PAP和2M5AP都有影響，含量分別下降至37.2﹪及67.1%，而在加熱下僅對PAP有影響，含量剩62.4%。

關鍵字

染髮 ； HPLC

並列摘要

As commonly used hair dye intermediates, PPD(p-phenylenediamine) is now recognized as a controversial ingredients due to stimulus and carcinogen. At present, PAP(p-Aminophenol) and TDS(Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate) are commercially available in hair dye used to replace PPD component. Therefore, PAP, TDS and 2M5AP(2-Methyl-5-amino phenol) were the main ingredients in our self-made hair dye during this research. The HPLC method was developed to assay the contents of the ingredients and to carry out the stability test of formula.
The developed HPLC method was performed with the conditions: column (Hypersil ODS-C18; 5μm; 4.6 mm × 250mm), mobile phase (acetonitrile : 1﹪triethylamine pH7.5 buffer＝10: 90), detection wavelelngth 245 nm for PPD (p-phenylenediamine), PAP (p-aminophenol), TDS (Toluene-2 ,5-diamine sulfate), MAP (m-aminophenol), OAP (o-aminophenol) and 2M5AP (2-Methyl-5-amino phenol) as well as 272 nm for RL (resorcinol), flow rate 1.0 ml/min, injection amount 10μL, and the run time was within 20 minutes to simultaneously analyze seven common ingredients of hair dyes.
In the stability tests, 6.5 % of antioxidant Na2SO3 was added to the formula of our self-made permanent hair dyes. This formula showed the satisfied results with the 83.7% contents of PAP、94.2% contents of TDS and 73.7% contents of 2M5AP in one month of 25℃ room temperature condition.

During the stress experiments of method validation, when the sample solutions were added strong acid, H2O2 or illuminating UV light, the contents of ingredients, PAP、TDS及2M5AP, were all above 88.5% that was showed quite stable in these conditions. Nevertheless, the contents of PAP and 2M5AP in sample solution were severely decreased to 37.2% and 67.1% respectively during the addition of strong base. Besides, the content of PAP only in sample solution was obviously decreased to 62.4% during the test of heating.

並列關鍵字

Hair dye ； HPLC

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