體型風格量身指標之建構研究

隨著時代的發展，國人的生活營養情況逐漸在改變，以及醫療技術的提升，身高與體態已隨之變化，因此，與人體體型密切相關的人體特徵尺寸是影響服裝打版的重點，所以掌握體型風格與體型的量身尺寸，是服裝設計初學者，面對服裝打版學習上的重要課題之一。本研究目地為﹕一、分析體型風格之種類；二、探討影響體型風格分類之關鍵量身尺寸，以建構體型風格之量身指標。本研究以台灣南部地區，某所女大學生為研究樣本，運用靜態人體量測方法，測量人體29項尺寸，共取得樣本共270位進行量化分析；再搭配質性化的專家會議。研究結果顯示：1.運用集群分析將樣本體型分群；2.透過專家會議針對分群代表人物，進行體型風格命名與體型特徵分析；3.再依模糊德菲法篩選量身關鍵尺寸評估因子；4.最後再以驗證性因素分析，保留相關性差異大的量身尺寸，共有四項因素：「正寬」、「側寬」、「身圍」、「肢圍」；並建構出12項量身指標。本研究重要貢獻﹕研究結果有助於服裝設計初學者，體型風格判斷與量身尺寸指標之參考，並提供實務經驗之研究流程與方法，有助於學術界與產業界後續體型研究參考依據。

關鍵字

體型風格；量身指標；體型特徵；少淑女產業

並列摘要

As time evolves, people's nutrition has changed gradually. The height and the body shape of people also change due to the improved medical technology. Body characteristics and sizes that are closely related to the body shapes are the key to pattern making. How to master the body shape and body measurement is one of important issues that fashion design beginners should learn from pattern making. The purpose of the study is to (1) analyze the type of body shapes and (2) explore key factors used to measure and classify the type of body shapes in order to create measurement indexes. The object of the study is female students in the university in South Taiwan. Based on the static body measurement, 29 sizes were measured. A total of 270 samples were collected for quantitative analysis and qualitative expert meetings. The results of the study are summarized as follows: (1) group the samples using Cluster Analysis; (2) name the body shapes and analyze body characteristics of the group representatives in expert meetings; (3) screen the key factors for body measurement through Fuzzy Delphi Method; and (4) retain four factors of significant differences in correlation using Confirmatory Factor Analysis, namely, front width, side width, body circumference, and limb circumference. In addition, a total of 12 measurement indexes were created. Important contributions of the study: The study helps fashion design beginners in pattern making understand body shapes and measurement indexes. The procedures and the methodology used in the study serve as a reference for subsequent studies of body shapes in the academia and the industry.