比較東西方設計師不同立裁技法設計表現法－以Comme des Garcons及Alexander McQueen為例

The Comparison of the Different Design Performances in Draping Techniques between Eastern and Western Designers-Comme des Garcons and Alexander McQueen

傅美玲(M. L. Fu) ； 許淑蘭(S. L. Hsu)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 24卷2期 (2014/04) Pp. 28-39

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.201404_24(2).0004

摘要

為了順應個性化的品牌時代，滿足消費者對款式、檔次、品位的追求，服裝款式的多變及創新，常常是一件衣服需多種打版技法混合使用才能充份表現出服裝的特徵與品味，尤其是多變化的女裝市場更具有此特性。立體裁剪因具有立體、直觀的效果，成為高檔的單件服裝和禮服製作所必選。因此，本研究採用立體裁剪技法來探討東西方設計師服裝－川久保玲Comme des Garcons與亞歷山大麥昆Alexander McQueen兩位設計師的作品，剖析以立體裁剪應用的情況。本研究選擇此二位東西方設計師，是因這兩位設計師的作品具有使用立體裁剪技法的特性。研究方法採內容分析法，以描述性統計圖表比對兩位設計師服裝款式以立體裁剪技法應用之差異。結果顯示川久保玲將日本沉靜典雅的傳統元素，亞歷山大以無產階級的無禮態度、街頭文化為出發點，兩者的設計均充滿了天馬行空般的非凡想像力，對服裝結構設計也提出了更高的要求，更突顯立體裁剪最能創造出多變化服裝款式的版型，不但可以拓寬設計師、打版師的專業視野，更提高服裝結構設計的靈敏性。

關鍵字

立體裁剪技法 ； 東西方設計師 ； 內容分析法

並列摘要

In order to cope with the brand era stressed on individual personality, and to satisfy the needs of consumers on fashion styles, classes and tastes, on the part of the diversity and innovation of clothing design, often only by using multiple pattern makings interchangeably, a clothing is then able to present its characteristics and refinement, and this is especially obvious in the changing markets of women's clothing. Due draping is with the effect of concreteness and visualization, it is a must to be used on the making of high quality dresses and evening gowns, hence, with adoption of draping in this study, to make investigation on the structures of patterns, and to make analysis as well as examination on the applications of draping from the pictures of fashion shows by both the eastern - Comme des Garcons (Rei Kawakubo) and western - Alexander McQueen designers. In this study, to make adoption of works from both the eastern and western designers respectively as Rei Kawakubo and Alexander McQueen, it is mainly due the works of the two designers are with the characteristics of 3-D cutting techniques, lastly, by way of comparing pattern differences between the two designers in the diagrams, to realize that there are higher demands from people on the dress structure designs, moreover, on the basics of clothing wearing, to require excellent lines, beautiful styling, and with functions as well as comfortableness. All of which make more obviously only draping with the best ability to create clothing patterns in diversified styles, and draping is able to expand the professionalism from both the designers and pattern makers, at the same time, to increase the dexterity of structure designs.

並列關鍵字

3-D cutting techniques ； eastern and western designers ； content analysis