閒情的吃，雅致的嚐－明清江南的介類水產與飲食生活

本文欲考察的是：介類水產在明清江南飲食中的角色與文化。基本上分成兩大主題，首先針對江南水域的介類水產進行分類，並依次討論牠們在飲食生活中角色與特性，這部分將以烹製方式與品饌文化為主。當烹製方式改變時，介類角色逐漸擺脫傳統三餐的飲食模式，逐漸趨向隨意性、精緻性與自由性，這裡將討論飲食發展如何從「日常性」趨向「非日常性」。其次。品饌文化代表了介類水產與消費者之間的互動關係，當食物跨出「日常性」的飲食範疇時，許多時候品饌文化代表了人們或社群之間感情互動，並藉由其中發展出多元的面向。第二部分將以特殊介類為例，討論食物觀念的傳播不僅存在於食譜或口耳相傳，經由社會精英文化的不斷傳閱，它可能左右人們對食物的觀點與看法。宋儒蘇軾為「江瑤柱」立傳而不斷影響後人對此食物的觀點，這是筆者文中申論的另一觀點。

關鍵字

介類水產；江南；品饌；食物文化；蘇軾

並列摘要

This paper investigates the role and culture of shellfish in the dietary culture of people living south of the Yangtze during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is divided into two parts. In the first part, shellfish products from the Yangtze were classified and their roles and characteristics were discussed in terms of the cooking style and food tasting culture. When the cooking style changes, the traditional dining mode of a regular three meals will progressively head towards dining with randomness, sophistication and freedom; this in fact relates to the dining development from the ”routine” to the ”non-routine”. Secondly, the food tasting culture represents the interaction between these foods and consumers. When food departs from the ”routine” dining mode, it represents the diversification of emotional interactions among people or groups. In the second part, specific shellfish products are used as examples to discuss the spread of food concepts, which not only relies on recipes or words of mouth, but also on gentry culture which may influence people's view on food. For example, the comment on scallops by the great scholar Su Dongpo in the northern Song dynasty has continuously influenced our perspectives of this particular food, and this is discussed in a separate section.