影響針織衫外觀平整與配適因素之研究

A Study on the Coordinating Factors that Influence the Fit Appearance of Knit Top

李敬德(Chin-Te Li) ； 傅美玲(Mei-Ling Fu)

《設計研究學報》 5期 (2012/07) Pp. 103-118

https://doi.org/10.29701/JDR.201207.0009

摘要

本研究是針對外銷成衣於核樣期間，時常發生針織上衣之前胸圍脇邊拉痕、前下襬吊高與後下襬下垂呈不水平狀態，故欲進一步研究與釐清，期望找出其形成原因與有效改善之配適因素、以利日後產業界在面臨激烈競爭環境下，使其成衣貿易流程之效率提高，樣衣品質提升並增加其核心價值與競爭力。本研究目的有三：一、提出針織衫之前胸圍脇邊拉痕、前下襬吊高與後下襬下垂之現象的成因與有效改善之配適因素。二、提出針織衫之前胸圍與後胸圍之差異，影響其外觀平整的成因與有效改善之配適因素。三、提出針織衫之前、後袖襱弧度，影響其外觀平整的成因與有效改善之配適因素。主要是針對美國外銷市場上所使用的核可樣人檯為實驗對象，並以合身平整的觀點，進行立體裁剪方式取得針織上衣原型，並再套用於市場上常用的四種不同特性的針織布上，進一步驗證上述議題的實驗結果。經此實驗與驗證方式並加以分析該議題之相關性，找出最佳解決方法，最後歸納結果並建議未來可能之相關研究方向。實驗結果顯示︰針織衫上衣前胸圍脇 邊拉痕、前下襬吊高與後下襬下垂且不呈水平情形與其不同胸形的豐滿程度有其相關性，前胸愈豐滿胸型者其前胸圍會愈大於其後胸圍，因而影響其外觀的平整度，且針織衫之前、後胸圍的差異結果，也實際反應到版片上的前、後胸圍落差與前垂份量上。此外，針織版型因在無胸褶的情形下，胸部愈豐滿時，愈會影響其前、後袖襱的弧度與外觀的平整。本實驗所得結果將對於未來成衣業界有非常值得參考的價值。

關鍵字

上衣原型 ； 胸圍型態 ； 前與後胸圍差 ； 胸脇拉痕 ； 前下襬吊高

並列摘要

This study investigates the uneven state of the dragline marks on the front side bust, the hiking of front hem, and the collapsing of back sweep that appear on exported clothes during the fitting stages. The purpose of this research is to discover the reasons of how the uneven state formed and what the coordinating factors related the problems will be improved effectively. Hopefully, this research will provide industry, under the keenly competitive surroundings, with increased core value of trade procedure, sample quality and striving advantage efficiently.Specifically, the four purposes of this study are: 1. to provide the comprised reasons and the coordinating factors for improvement related to the dragline marks on the front side bust, the hiking of the front hem, and the collapsing of the back sweep that negatively affect the appearance of knit tops; 2. to provide the comprised reasons and the coordinating factors for improvement related to the difference between front and back bust width, and how it affects the bust circumference; 3. to provide the comprised reasons and the coordinating factors for improvement related to how the differences between the curved front and back armholes of woven and knitted prototypes influence their appearance.The procedure of this research is as follows: First a piece of knitted fabric is draped on a US export market approved dummy so as to obtain the best results as regards fitness and smoothness. The draped garment is then converted into a prototype pattern. Subsequently, four different types of knitted fabric commonly used on the market are experimented with and adopted the same prototype pattern on the test dummy. The resulting appearance of each is analyzed and the similarities and differences are evaluated in search for the best fitting solution. Finally, the results are summarized and proposals for possible directions for continued future research are offered.The results of the above investigation revealed the following: The uneven state of the dragline marks on the front side bust, the hiking of front hem, and the collapsing of back sweep are affected by the fullness of different breast shapes. Fuller breasts have wider front bust width than back bust width, which affects the fitness of the garment. Due to body shape, the difference between the front bust width and back bust width is inconsistent and actual reflect on knit paper pattern at breast and hem area. As a result, the researcher also found that the curve line of front and back armholes, when using knitted patterns which have no bust darts, is affected by the fullness of the breast. Since this is quite different from what is stated in some pattern-making books and training handbooks discussing this issue, the results of this investigation are considered very valuable for pattern-makers working in the ready-to-wear industry.

並列關鍵字

Top Block ； Breast Shape ； Difference between Front and Back Bust Width ； Dragline Marks on Front

參考文獻

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Fan, Jintu,Yu, Winnie,Hunter, Lawrance(2004).Clothing Appearance and Fit: Science and Technology.Woodhead Publishing Limited.

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Joseph-Armstrong, Helen(2000).Pattern making for Fashion Design.New Jersey, USA:Upper Saddle River.